Botswana 2009
We left Beaufort West on 24 October 2009 on a birding trip to Botswana & Caprivi. The group consists of 5 SA birders of whom we met some at Mokala Nat Park and Mafikeng.
Along the road through the Karoo we found some STEPPE BUZZARD and JACKAL BUZZARD. At the Klein Brak River about 15 km north of Victoria West we stopped at the most southernly colony of SA CLIFF SWALLOWS on the N12. There are hundreds of them busy repairing their nests for the new season. They were accompanied by LITTLE and WHITE-RUMPED SWIFTS. Just south of Britstown we had a pair of GREATER KESTRELS perching on a pylon. The SOCIABLE WEAVER nests north of Hopetown host several of these birds, but no PYGMY FALCONS.
We turned off to Mokala Nat Park while a thunderstorm was approaching. MOKALA NAT PARK (www.sanparks.org/mokala ; tel +27 53 2040158) is a gem and will become very popular by birders. The facilities are very neat and good and the personnel very friendly and good trained. The park can highly recommended.
En route to the entrance we saw some GREYBACKED SPARROWLARKS and KALAHARI SCRUB-ROBIN. Inside the park we had BLACK-CHESTED PRINIA, SPIKEHEELED LARKS, BRUBRU, numerous BLACK CUCKOOS which responds very quickly to the call, ASHY ***, PRIRIT BATIS, JACOBIN CUCKOO, SWALLOW-TAILED BEE-EATER, a tumbling RED-CRESTED KORHAAN, some PYGMY FALCONS at the SOCIABLE WEAVER nests, singing BARRED WREN-WARBLER and a GABAR GOSHAWK.
En route to Lilydale we saw our first LESSER KESTREL of the season just south of the Riet River.
We stayed at LILYDALE LODGE in the park which, at this stage is still separated from the main park, but lies in a 3000 ha part of the park along the Riet River. We arrived there just before sunset and along the road to the lodge we saw CHAT FLYCATCHER, EUR BEE-EATER, LONGBILLED CROMBEC and numerous ANT-EATING CHATS. While putting up the braaivleis fire AFR REED-WARBLER and LESSER SWAMP WARBLER called from the reeds in the river. Shortly after sunset a RUFOUS-CHEEKED NIGHTJAR started calling and later on landed in the road near the chalets, giving good views.
An early morning drive in the park before we set off for Mafikeng gave BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE EAGLE, DESERT CISTICOLA, BANDED MARTIN, ORANGE RIVER FRANCOLIN, PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT and some of the endemic KIMBERLEY PIPITS.
A quick stop at the Big Hole in Kimberley produced some LITTLE, ALPINE, AFR PALM & WHITE-RUMPED SWIFTS, but unfortunately no BRADFIELD'S. We also stopped at Kamfersdam and could see the water problem as the dam's water level is very high, pushing through the culvert under the railway line towards the tar road. Nevertheless it was good to see the thousands of LESSER FLAMINGOES again as well as SOUTHERN POCHARDS, BLACK-NECKED GREBES, MACCOA DUCK and some WHITE-BACKED VULTURES (not swimming).
Just north of the Vaal River at Warrenton we had brilliant views of a pair of ORANGE RIVER FRANCOLINS. Along the road to Mafikeng we saw some RED-BREASTED SWALLOWS, LILAC-BREASTED ROLLERS, RED-COLLARED WIDOWBIRD and LITTLE EGRET.
We stayed in MAFIKENG NATURE RESERVE (www.tourismnorthwest.co.za/mafikenggamereserve; e-mail: mafgr@mweb.co.za. ; tel +27 18 3815611 ) just outside Mafikeng where you have a whole restored house to yourself. The house has all what you need for self-catering and is in a good codition. It is very relaxing to sit on the stoep and the game and birds moving past. Although you are very close to Mafikeng, you didn't get the feeling that you are close to a large town. Birds are very good as well and the reserve has good roads to explore it.
The reserve of about 4800 ha hosts several game species like WHITE RHINO, BUFFALO, ELAND, GIRAFFE, etc, but also very good Kalahari birds like RUFOUS-NAPED LARK, DOUBLE-BANDED COURSER, REDBILLED OXPECKER, AFR QUAILFINCH, LAPPETFACED VULTURE, SHORT-CLAWED LARK, WHITE-THROATED ROBIN-CHAT, SECRETARYBIRD, etc.
We also paid a visit to BOTSALANO GAME RESERVE, 30 km north of Mafikeng, which is always very rewarding. The reserve was still very dry as Mafikeng Nat Res was, but we saw inter alia CAPE GRIFFON, BATELEUR, LESSER HONEYGUIDE, TEMMINCK's COURSER, STRIPED KINGFISHER, AFR QUAILFINCH, CHESTNUT-BACKED SPARROWLARK, FAWNCOLOURED LARK and MELBA FINCH.
The next day we crossed the border into Botswana without any hassles and it was a long way to Francistown. Interesting birds along the way were GROUNDSCRAPER THRUSH, BLACK KITE, CAPE & WHITE-BACKED VULTURES, PURPLE ROLLER, STH WHITE-CROWNED SHRIKE and SHAFT-TAILED WHYDAH.
We overnighted at Woodlands 4x4 (www.woodlandscampingbots.com : e-mail: riverbend@botsnet.bw) outside Francistown which stays a good place with clean facilities. It can be always recommended to birders. We were welcomed by REDBILLED HORNBILLS, STH PIED BABBLER, YELLOWBELLIED GREENBUL, TINKLING CISTICOLA, CRIMSONBREASTED SHRIKE, PUFFBACK & ORANGE-BREASTED BUSH SHRIKE. During the night a PEARLSPOTTED OWL was calling.
An early morning walk gave us good views of BLACK HERON, SENEGAL COUCAL, TROPICAL BOUBOU, LEVAILLANT'S CUCKOO, a juvenile GABAR GOSHAWK which was very interested in the lodge's house cat and MARICO SUNBIRD.
We proceeded to Kasane, stopping north of Francistown at the spot of the BOULDER CHATS After about 30 min search we couldn't track them down. We saw some BRUBRU, CHINSPOT BATIS, BROWN-CROWNED TCHAGRA, KLAAS'S CUCKOO & REDBILLED FIREFINCH.
The road between Nata and Kasane is good up to the Vet Control Point, but then for the next 120 km it is a nightmare of potholes and road works. No chance to look for birds. The last about 100 km to Kasane is good again and here we found a water hole where some birds came to drink like MARABOU STORK, GABAR GOSHAWK, TAWNY EAGLE, hundreds of NAMAQUA DOVES & BLACK-THROATED CANARIES, SPURWINGED GEESE and the ever present YELLOWBILLED KITES. Some WHITE-BACKED & LAPPET-FACED VULTURES soared in a distance. En route were the first DARK CHANTING GOSHAWK, SHIKRA and BRADFIELD'S HORNBILL.
We arrived in Kasane where we stayed at Toro Lodge ( www.torolodge.co.bw. ; e-mail: torolodge@botsnet.bw ; tel +267 6252694 / 74584254). The management has become better since our last visit and the lodge looks good and it can be recommended. Their guide, Solomon, has a good knowledge of the birds and game and is well trained in his job. AFR JACANA fed on the lawn in front of the restaurant and scanning the Chobe River, we spotted some AFR SKIMMERS on a sand bank in the river. OPENBILLED STORK and GREENBACKED HERON crossed the river before sunset, while there are a constant moving of cormorants along the river. Just before sunset a sunbird landed in one of the thorn trees and on inspection we saw the broad red band and black belly, male SHELLEY'S SUNBIRD. It stays for a while but on arriving of some of the group, it has flown already.
The next morning we went on an early boat trip which was marvellous. Within a few minutes most of the group had a handful of lifers. Except for the more common species, a REDNECKED FALCON perched in a tree along the river giving splendid views, BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON, COPPERYTAILED COUCAL, plenty of LONGTOED LAPWINGS, REDWINGED PRATINCOLES, LUAPULA CISTICOLA, WHISKERED TERN, CHIRPING CISTICOLA, BANDED MARTIN, STH GROUND HORNBILL and on our return, the cherry on top, a female AFR FINFOOT along the river bank. We saw 66 bird species on the boat trip alone.
Now we moved to the gardens of Mowana Lodge where the resident COLLARED PALM-THRUSHES were waiting for us. Close to the Palm-Thrush a group of BROWN FIREFINCHES was perching while BRONZE MANNIKINS were feeding on the lawn. ROCK PRATINCOLE was relaxing on the rocks at the end of the river trail and on the return we had BENNETT'S WOODPECKER, COLLARED SUNBIRD, COPPERY SUNBIRD, lots of NTH GREY-HEADED SPARROW and STH BROWN-THROATED WEAVER.
In the afternoon we went on a game drive in the Chobe Nat Park with it's thousands of elephants. Upon seeing Red Lechwe, Puku, Kudu, Buffalo and lots of elephants, birding was very rewarding with KORI BUSTARD, SADDLEBILLED STORK, STH CARMINE BEE-EATER, BROADBILLED ROLLER, BRADFIELD'S HORNBILL, GREYHEADED BUSH-SHRIKE, YELLOWBILLED & REDBILLED OXPECKER, etc.
The next morning we crossed the border to Namibia. It was another very hot day and we picked up some TAWNY EAGLES, BATELEURS & PURPLE ROLLERS on our way through the Chobe Nat Park.
We stayed at Kalizo Lodge (www.kalizolodge.com ; Email: info@kalizolodge.com or kalizo@mighty.co.za; Tel: +264(0) 66-686802/3) on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River. Kalizo is that one place where you can go back time and again without getting fed up. The hospitality and personal attention of Danny & Val Sparg and their personnel are just of such a standard that you feel to stay forever. Birds are very good and therefore it can be highly recommended by any birders, but also to someone who just wants to relax.
In the afternoon we headed for the pans near Kalizo and the first stop was the beautiful STH CARMINE BEE-EATER colony. The estimate number of the birds in the colony is a few thousand and it was wonderful to stand right in the middle of the colony with birds all around you. The grass veld around the pans hosts lots of BLACK COUCALS and at the pans PYGMY GEESE, SLATY EGRET, BLACK HERON, RUFOUS-BELLIED HERON and HOTTENTOT TEAL. A search for some ROSY-THROATED LONGCLAWS didn't produce any thing.
We stayed Saturday at Kalizo exploring the pans and found all those of the previous afternoon plus some CASPIAN PLOVERS, BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE-EAGLE, a LESSER KESTREL, a few AMUR FALCONS flying overhead, ALLEN'S GALLINULE, BLACK-BELLIED BUSTARD, AFR GREEN-PIGEON, GREY-RUMPED SWALLOW, SAND & BANDED MARTIN, NTH GREY-HEADED SPARROW and FANTAILED WIDOWBIRD.
A search for ARNOT'S CHAT in mopane veld near the lodge didn't has success, but we got some YELLOW-FRONTED TINKERBIRD, STH WHITE-CROWNED SHRIKE and PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT. Back at the lodge the people that didn't see the SHELLEY'S SUNBIRD could add it to their life list, while AFR SKIMMER, COLLARED PRATINCOLE and some waders were seen on the sand bank. A heavy rainstorm interrupted the birding as well as the rugby.
Sunday we had to move onto Ngepi Camp via the Caprivi Strip. On our way out a WESTERN BANDED SNAKE-EAGLE perched on a tree, giving us good views, MEYER'S PARROTS and some had glimsing views of a CORNCRAKE diving into the grass. In search for SHALOW'S TURACO near Katima Mulilo, we found a GREEN-BACKED HONEYBIRD. We also found a young VERREAUX'S EAGLE-OWL high up in the canopy of a hugh tree and we heard SHALOW'S on the other side of the river, but didn't get any sightings.
West of Katima we looked for ARNOT'S CHATS, but only one vehicle saw some flying. An interesting sighting about 50 km west of Katima was that of a GREY KESTREL. We saw the small raptor flying across the road and follow it to the tree in which it landed. An unmistakeble GREY KESTREL.
We didn't find any Redheaded Queleas at Kwando Bridge, only a policeman who was angry with himself and would like to see all papers including our passports. We didn't make a lot of stops along the Caprivi but could add WOODLAND KINGFISHER, REDNECKED FALCON, LITTLE BEE-EATER & STH GROUND HORNBILL.
In the Kavango River near Divundu we found more ROCK PRATINCOLES, some roosting on the rocks and other hawking over the river.
Ngepi Camp ( www.ngepicamp.com ; email: bookings@ngepicamp.com ; Tel:+264 66 259903 ) is situated on the banks of the Kavango River. It facilities are unique and built from local materials with very little impact on nature. It is a great place to stay with some good birds around the lodge.
The next morning we birded the area to the west of Divundu and saw some COMB DUCKS, found a freshly killed male PENNANT-WINGED NIGHTJAR (we try first aid on it to recover without success), check all the starlings for SHARPTAILED STARLINGS, DARK CHANTING GOSHAWK, LIZARD BUZZARD, AFR HARRIER-HAWK, EUR HOBBY, BLACK & RED-CHESTED CUCKOO & GREY-HEADED KINGFISHER.
The afternoon we tried the area around Ngepi and Mahango, saw some water and bushveld birds but no specials.
Tuesday we started off at Mahango Game Reserve on our way to Drotsky Cabins in Botswana. A pair of MOSQUE SWALLOWS breeds at the entrance gate and on the wetland we saw GOLIATH & PURPLE HERON, YELLOWBILLED & SLATY EGRET, RUFOUSBELLIED , BLACK & SQUACCO HERONS, WOOLLY-NECKED STORK & LONGTOED LAPWING. The bushveld areas were more quiet with BEARDED WOODPECKER, LITTLE SPARROWHAWK, BRUBRU & VIOLET-BACK STARLING.
We crossed the border to Botswana without any hassless. We stayed at Drotsky Cabins (e-mail: drotskys@info.bw ; tel +267 7685035 ; fax +267 6875043 ) on the Panhandle and it is one of that must visit places along the Delta. This family owned lodge has very good personnel and always goes out of their way with their hospitality. Birding is great and their guides are excellent. Like Kalizo it is a place where you always wanted to go back to.
At Drotsky's we found the resident pair of AFR WOOD-OWL with a chick in the campsite. Birding from the deck in front of the restaurant gave REDHEADED, THICKBILLED, GOLDEN & STH BROWNTHROATED WEAVER as well as GREAT REED-WARBLER, TAWNY-FLANKED PRINIA & COLLARED SUNBIRD. Just as the sun set we had brilliant views of an AFR BARRED OWLET.
We had a boat to our availability for the whole Wednesday, so we first set off towards Shakawe. Within 200 metres from the lodge, we had our first WHITE-BACKED NIGHT HERONS. Along the way we saw most of the herons and egrets and near Shakawe village the resident PEL'S FISHING OWL. Other interesting birds for the morning were LAPPET-FACED VULTURE soaring overhead, OSPREY, LONGTOED LAPWING, COMMON & WOOD SANDPIPER, WHISKERED TERN, COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN, GREATER SWAMP-WARBLER, CHIRPING CISTICOLA & COLLARED PRATINCOLES.
The afternoon we moved downstream and saw some BLUECHEEKED BEE-EATERS, a lonely GREY PLOVERS with some AFR SKIMMERS, PYGMY GEESE, LONG-CRESTED EAGLE, lots of SQUACCO HERONS, LITTLE BITTERN, more GREATER SWAMP-WARBLER and AFR OPENBILL.
The next day we took the road to Ghanzi where we stayed at the Thakadu Lodge (www.thakadubushcamp.com ;e-mail: thakadu@botsnet.bw ) which is situated in typical Kalahari veld. The lodge facilities are neat and under the personal supervision of Chris, the owner. There is a restaurant with an a la carte menu and the food is excellent. The lodge can definitely recommended as a stop over as birding is good and the floodlitted waterhole is superb.
En route from Drotskys we saw another EUR HOBBY, our first MARTIAL EAGLE of the trip, a LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE mopped by the always present YELLOWBILLED KITES, our first WAHLBERG'S EAGLE, a pair of AFR HAWK-EAGLE & CHESTNUT-BACKED SPARROWLARKS.
About 40 km north east of Ghanzi we saw some swifts and swallows in a flock feeding which includes a few BRADFIELD'S SWIFTS and some AFR BLACK SWIFTS.
Thakadu Lodge is just outside Ghanzi and the Kalahari veld hosts good birds. ASHY ***, GABAR GOSHAWK, BLACK & JACOBIN CUCKOOS, BENNETT'S WOODPECKER, BLACK-CHESTED PRINIA and SHAFT-TAILED WHYDAH are all inhabits of the lodge. Just after sunset a group of DOUBLE-BANDED & BURCHELL'S SANDGROUSES landed at the little dam in front of the restaurant which is enlighted by a floodlit.
The road from Ghanzi to Vryburg was a long one and we spotted several TAWNY EAGLES and STH PALE CHANTING GOSHAWKS along the road. A group of WHITE-BACKED VULTURES also included a few WHITE-HEADED VULTURES. We saw some birds whirling and presume that there must be some water. It was Kang's sewage works and birds around here were CAPE TEAL, BLACKSMITH LAPWING, COMMON & WOOD SANDPIPER, RUFF, BLACK-WINGED STILT, PIED AVOCET and the big one, GREEN SANDPIPER.
The last night we stayed at Boereplaas Holiday Resort (www.boereplaas.co.za;e-mail: johann@boereplaas.co.za; Tel. +27 53 9274462). It has good facilities and the chalets are neat and efficient, but it could be overcrowded for birders over weekends. You have access to the farm to bird. There is an a la carte restaurant which serves excellent food.
The last day we headed from Vryburg to Beaufort West and new birds for the trip list were SA SHELDUCK, MOUNTAIN WHEATEAR and CAPE BUNTING.
We ended the trip with 370 species.
~ Japie
Along the road through the Karoo we found some STEPPE BUZZARD and JACKAL BUZZARD. At the Klein Brak River about 15 km north of Victoria West we stopped at the most southernly colony of SA CLIFF SWALLOWS on the N12. There are hundreds of them busy repairing their nests for the new season. They were accompanied by LITTLE and WHITE-RUMPED SWIFTS. Just south of Britstown we had a pair of GREATER KESTRELS perching on a pylon. The SOCIABLE WEAVER nests north of Hopetown host several of these birds, but no PYGMY FALCONS.
We turned off to Mokala Nat Park while a thunderstorm was approaching. MOKALA NAT PARK (www.sanparks.org/mokala ; tel +27 53 2040158) is a gem and will become very popular by birders. The facilities are very neat and good and the personnel very friendly and good trained. The park can highly recommended.
En route to the entrance we saw some GREYBACKED SPARROWLARKS and KALAHARI SCRUB-ROBIN. Inside the park we had BLACK-CHESTED PRINIA, SPIKEHEELED LARKS, BRUBRU, numerous BLACK CUCKOOS which responds very quickly to the call, ASHY ***, PRIRIT BATIS, JACOBIN CUCKOO, SWALLOW-TAILED BEE-EATER, a tumbling RED-CRESTED KORHAAN, some PYGMY FALCONS at the SOCIABLE WEAVER nests, singing BARRED WREN-WARBLER and a GABAR GOSHAWK.
En route to Lilydale we saw our first LESSER KESTREL of the season just south of the Riet River.
We stayed at LILYDALE LODGE in the park which, at this stage is still separated from the main park, but lies in a 3000 ha part of the park along the Riet River. We arrived there just before sunset and along the road to the lodge we saw CHAT FLYCATCHER, EUR BEE-EATER, LONGBILLED CROMBEC and numerous ANT-EATING CHATS. While putting up the braaivleis fire AFR REED-WARBLER and LESSER SWAMP WARBLER called from the reeds in the river. Shortly after sunset a RUFOUS-CHEEKED NIGHTJAR started calling and later on landed in the road near the chalets, giving good views.
An early morning drive in the park before we set off for Mafikeng gave BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE EAGLE, DESERT CISTICOLA, BANDED MARTIN, ORANGE RIVER FRANCOLIN, PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT and some of the endemic KIMBERLEY PIPITS.
A quick stop at the Big Hole in Kimberley produced some LITTLE, ALPINE, AFR PALM & WHITE-RUMPED SWIFTS, but unfortunately no BRADFIELD'S. We also stopped at Kamfersdam and could see the water problem as the dam's water level is very high, pushing through the culvert under the railway line towards the tar road. Nevertheless it was good to see the thousands of LESSER FLAMINGOES again as well as SOUTHERN POCHARDS, BLACK-NECKED GREBES, MACCOA DUCK and some WHITE-BACKED VULTURES (not swimming).
Just north of the Vaal River at Warrenton we had brilliant views of a pair of ORANGE RIVER FRANCOLINS. Along the road to Mafikeng we saw some RED-BREASTED SWALLOWS, LILAC-BREASTED ROLLERS, RED-COLLARED WIDOWBIRD and LITTLE EGRET.
We stayed in MAFIKENG NATURE RESERVE (www.tourismnorthwest.co.za/mafikenggamereserve; e-mail: mafgr@mweb.co.za. ; tel +27 18 3815611 ) just outside Mafikeng where you have a whole restored house to yourself. The house has all what you need for self-catering and is in a good codition. It is very relaxing to sit on the stoep and the game and birds moving past. Although you are very close to Mafikeng, you didn't get the feeling that you are close to a large town. Birds are very good as well and the reserve has good roads to explore it.
The reserve of about 4800 ha hosts several game species like WHITE RHINO, BUFFALO, ELAND, GIRAFFE, etc, but also very good Kalahari birds like RUFOUS-NAPED LARK, DOUBLE-BANDED COURSER, REDBILLED OXPECKER, AFR QUAILFINCH, LAPPETFACED VULTURE, SHORT-CLAWED LARK, WHITE-THROATED ROBIN-CHAT, SECRETARYBIRD, etc.
We also paid a visit to BOTSALANO GAME RESERVE, 30 km north of Mafikeng, which is always very rewarding. The reserve was still very dry as Mafikeng Nat Res was, but we saw inter alia CAPE GRIFFON, BATELEUR, LESSER HONEYGUIDE, TEMMINCK's COURSER, STRIPED KINGFISHER, AFR QUAILFINCH, CHESTNUT-BACKED SPARROWLARK, FAWNCOLOURED LARK and MELBA FINCH.
The next day we crossed the border into Botswana without any hassles and it was a long way to Francistown. Interesting birds along the way were GROUNDSCRAPER THRUSH, BLACK KITE, CAPE & WHITE-BACKED VULTURES, PURPLE ROLLER, STH WHITE-CROWNED SHRIKE and SHAFT-TAILED WHYDAH.
We overnighted at Woodlands 4x4 (www.woodlandscampingbots.com : e-mail: riverbend@botsnet.bw) outside Francistown which stays a good place with clean facilities. It can be always recommended to birders. We were welcomed by REDBILLED HORNBILLS, STH PIED BABBLER, YELLOWBELLIED GREENBUL, TINKLING CISTICOLA, CRIMSONBREASTED SHRIKE, PUFFBACK & ORANGE-BREASTED BUSH SHRIKE. During the night a PEARLSPOTTED OWL was calling.
An early morning walk gave us good views of BLACK HERON, SENEGAL COUCAL, TROPICAL BOUBOU, LEVAILLANT'S CUCKOO, a juvenile GABAR GOSHAWK which was very interested in the lodge's house cat and MARICO SUNBIRD.
We proceeded to Kasane, stopping north of Francistown at the spot of the BOULDER CHATS After about 30 min search we couldn't track them down. We saw some BRUBRU, CHINSPOT BATIS, BROWN-CROWNED TCHAGRA, KLAAS'S CUCKOO & REDBILLED FIREFINCH.
The road between Nata and Kasane is good up to the Vet Control Point, but then for the next 120 km it is a nightmare of potholes and road works. No chance to look for birds. The last about 100 km to Kasane is good again and here we found a water hole where some birds came to drink like MARABOU STORK, GABAR GOSHAWK, TAWNY EAGLE, hundreds of NAMAQUA DOVES & BLACK-THROATED CANARIES, SPURWINGED GEESE and the ever present YELLOWBILLED KITES. Some WHITE-BACKED & LAPPET-FACED VULTURES soared in a distance. En route were the first DARK CHANTING GOSHAWK, SHIKRA and BRADFIELD'S HORNBILL.
We arrived in Kasane where we stayed at Toro Lodge ( www.torolodge.co.bw. ; e-mail: torolodge@botsnet.bw ; tel +267 6252694 / 74584254). The management has become better since our last visit and the lodge looks good and it can be recommended. Their guide, Solomon, has a good knowledge of the birds and game and is well trained in his job. AFR JACANA fed on the lawn in front of the restaurant and scanning the Chobe River, we spotted some AFR SKIMMERS on a sand bank in the river. OPENBILLED STORK and GREENBACKED HERON crossed the river before sunset, while there are a constant moving of cormorants along the river. Just before sunset a sunbird landed in one of the thorn trees and on inspection we saw the broad red band and black belly, male SHELLEY'S SUNBIRD. It stays for a while but on arriving of some of the group, it has flown already.
The next morning we went on an early boat trip which was marvellous. Within a few minutes most of the group had a handful of lifers. Except for the more common species, a REDNECKED FALCON perched in a tree along the river giving splendid views, BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON, COPPERYTAILED COUCAL, plenty of LONGTOED LAPWINGS, REDWINGED PRATINCOLES, LUAPULA CISTICOLA, WHISKERED TERN, CHIRPING CISTICOLA, BANDED MARTIN, STH GROUND HORNBILL and on our return, the cherry on top, a female AFR FINFOOT along the river bank. We saw 66 bird species on the boat trip alone.
Now we moved to the gardens of Mowana Lodge where the resident COLLARED PALM-THRUSHES were waiting for us. Close to the Palm-Thrush a group of BROWN FIREFINCHES was perching while BRONZE MANNIKINS were feeding on the lawn. ROCK PRATINCOLE was relaxing on the rocks at the end of the river trail and on the return we had BENNETT'S WOODPECKER, COLLARED SUNBIRD, COPPERY SUNBIRD, lots of NTH GREY-HEADED SPARROW and STH BROWN-THROATED WEAVER.
In the afternoon we went on a game drive in the Chobe Nat Park with it's thousands of elephants. Upon seeing Red Lechwe, Puku, Kudu, Buffalo and lots of elephants, birding was very rewarding with KORI BUSTARD, SADDLEBILLED STORK, STH CARMINE BEE-EATER, BROADBILLED ROLLER, BRADFIELD'S HORNBILL, GREYHEADED BUSH-SHRIKE, YELLOWBILLED & REDBILLED OXPECKER, etc.
The next morning we crossed the border to Namibia. It was another very hot day and we picked up some TAWNY EAGLES, BATELEURS & PURPLE ROLLERS on our way through the Chobe Nat Park.
We stayed at Kalizo Lodge (www.kalizolodge.com ; Email: info@kalizolodge.com or kalizo@mighty.co.za; Tel: +264(0) 66-686802/3) on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River. Kalizo is that one place where you can go back time and again without getting fed up. The hospitality and personal attention of Danny & Val Sparg and their personnel are just of such a standard that you feel to stay forever. Birds are very good and therefore it can be highly recommended by any birders, but also to someone who just wants to relax.
In the afternoon we headed for the pans near Kalizo and the first stop was the beautiful STH CARMINE BEE-EATER colony. The estimate number of the birds in the colony is a few thousand and it was wonderful to stand right in the middle of the colony with birds all around you. The grass veld around the pans hosts lots of BLACK COUCALS and at the pans PYGMY GEESE, SLATY EGRET, BLACK HERON, RUFOUS-BELLIED HERON and HOTTENTOT TEAL. A search for some ROSY-THROATED LONGCLAWS didn't produce any thing.
We stayed Saturday at Kalizo exploring the pans and found all those of the previous afternoon plus some CASPIAN PLOVERS, BLACK-CHESTED SNAKE-EAGLE, a LESSER KESTREL, a few AMUR FALCONS flying overhead, ALLEN'S GALLINULE, BLACK-BELLIED BUSTARD, AFR GREEN-PIGEON, GREY-RUMPED SWALLOW, SAND & BANDED MARTIN, NTH GREY-HEADED SPARROW and FANTAILED WIDOWBIRD.
A search for ARNOT'S CHAT in mopane veld near the lodge didn't has success, but we got some YELLOW-FRONTED TINKERBIRD, STH WHITE-CROWNED SHRIKE and PLAIN-BACKED PIPIT. Back at the lodge the people that didn't see the SHELLEY'S SUNBIRD could add it to their life list, while AFR SKIMMER, COLLARED PRATINCOLE and some waders were seen on the sand bank. A heavy rainstorm interrupted the birding as well as the rugby.
Sunday we had to move onto Ngepi Camp via the Caprivi Strip. On our way out a WESTERN BANDED SNAKE-EAGLE perched on a tree, giving us good views, MEYER'S PARROTS and some had glimsing views of a CORNCRAKE diving into the grass. In search for SHALOW'S TURACO near Katima Mulilo, we found a GREEN-BACKED HONEYBIRD. We also found a young VERREAUX'S EAGLE-OWL high up in the canopy of a hugh tree and we heard SHALOW'S on the other side of the river, but didn't get any sightings.
West of Katima we looked for ARNOT'S CHATS, but only one vehicle saw some flying. An interesting sighting about 50 km west of Katima was that of a GREY KESTREL. We saw the small raptor flying across the road and follow it to the tree in which it landed. An unmistakeble GREY KESTREL.
We didn't find any Redheaded Queleas at Kwando Bridge, only a policeman who was angry with himself and would like to see all papers including our passports. We didn't make a lot of stops along the Caprivi but could add WOODLAND KINGFISHER, REDNECKED FALCON, LITTLE BEE-EATER & STH GROUND HORNBILL.
In the Kavango River near Divundu we found more ROCK PRATINCOLES, some roosting on the rocks and other hawking over the river.
Ngepi Camp ( www.ngepicamp.com ; email: bookings@ngepicamp.com ; Tel:+264 66 259903 ) is situated on the banks of the Kavango River. It facilities are unique and built from local materials with very little impact on nature. It is a great place to stay with some good birds around the lodge.
The next morning we birded the area to the west of Divundu and saw some COMB DUCKS, found a freshly killed male PENNANT-WINGED NIGHTJAR (we try first aid on it to recover without success), check all the starlings for SHARPTAILED STARLINGS, DARK CHANTING GOSHAWK, LIZARD BUZZARD, AFR HARRIER-HAWK, EUR HOBBY, BLACK & RED-CHESTED CUCKOO & GREY-HEADED KINGFISHER.
The afternoon we tried the area around Ngepi and Mahango, saw some water and bushveld birds but no specials.
Tuesday we started off at Mahango Game Reserve on our way to Drotsky Cabins in Botswana. A pair of MOSQUE SWALLOWS breeds at the entrance gate and on the wetland we saw GOLIATH & PURPLE HERON, YELLOWBILLED & SLATY EGRET, RUFOUSBELLIED , BLACK & SQUACCO HERONS, WOOLLY-NECKED STORK & LONGTOED LAPWING. The bushveld areas were more quiet with BEARDED WOODPECKER, LITTLE SPARROWHAWK, BRUBRU & VIOLET-BACK STARLING.
We crossed the border to Botswana without any hassless. We stayed at Drotsky Cabins (e-mail: drotskys@info.bw ; tel +267 7685035 ; fax +267 6875043 ) on the Panhandle and it is one of that must visit places along the Delta. This family owned lodge has very good personnel and always goes out of their way with their hospitality. Birding is great and their guides are excellent. Like Kalizo it is a place where you always wanted to go back to.
At Drotsky's we found the resident pair of AFR WOOD-OWL with a chick in the campsite. Birding from the deck in front of the restaurant gave REDHEADED, THICKBILLED, GOLDEN & STH BROWNTHROATED WEAVER as well as GREAT REED-WARBLER, TAWNY-FLANKED PRINIA & COLLARED SUNBIRD. Just as the sun set we had brilliant views of an AFR BARRED OWLET.
We had a boat to our availability for the whole Wednesday, so we first set off towards Shakawe. Within 200 metres from the lodge, we had our first WHITE-BACKED NIGHT HERONS. Along the way we saw most of the herons and egrets and near Shakawe village the resident PEL'S FISHING OWL. Other interesting birds for the morning were LAPPET-FACED VULTURE soaring overhead, OSPREY, LONGTOED LAPWING, COMMON & WOOD SANDPIPER, WHISKERED TERN, COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN, GREATER SWAMP-WARBLER, CHIRPING CISTICOLA & COLLARED PRATINCOLES.
The afternoon we moved downstream and saw some BLUECHEEKED BEE-EATERS, a lonely GREY PLOVERS with some AFR SKIMMERS, PYGMY GEESE, LONG-CRESTED EAGLE, lots of SQUACCO HERONS, LITTLE BITTERN, more GREATER SWAMP-WARBLER and AFR OPENBILL.
The next day we took the road to Ghanzi where we stayed at the Thakadu Lodge (www.thakadubushcamp.com ;e-mail: thakadu@botsnet.bw ) which is situated in typical Kalahari veld. The lodge facilities are neat and under the personal supervision of Chris, the owner. There is a restaurant with an a la carte menu and the food is excellent. The lodge can definitely recommended as a stop over as birding is good and the floodlitted waterhole is superb.
En route from Drotskys we saw another EUR HOBBY, our first MARTIAL EAGLE of the trip, a LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE mopped by the always present YELLOWBILLED KITES, our first WAHLBERG'S EAGLE, a pair of AFR HAWK-EAGLE & CHESTNUT-BACKED SPARROWLARKS.
About 40 km north east of Ghanzi we saw some swifts and swallows in a flock feeding which includes a few BRADFIELD'S SWIFTS and some AFR BLACK SWIFTS.
Thakadu Lodge is just outside Ghanzi and the Kalahari veld hosts good birds. ASHY ***, GABAR GOSHAWK, BLACK & JACOBIN CUCKOOS, BENNETT'S WOODPECKER, BLACK-CHESTED PRINIA and SHAFT-TAILED WHYDAH are all inhabits of the lodge. Just after sunset a group of DOUBLE-BANDED & BURCHELL'S SANDGROUSES landed at the little dam in front of the restaurant which is enlighted by a floodlit.
The road from Ghanzi to Vryburg was a long one and we spotted several TAWNY EAGLES and STH PALE CHANTING GOSHAWKS along the road. A group of WHITE-BACKED VULTURES also included a few WHITE-HEADED VULTURES. We saw some birds whirling and presume that there must be some water. It was Kang's sewage works and birds around here were CAPE TEAL, BLACKSMITH LAPWING, COMMON & WOOD SANDPIPER, RUFF, BLACK-WINGED STILT, PIED AVOCET and the big one, GREEN SANDPIPER.
The last night we stayed at Boereplaas Holiday Resort (www.boereplaas.co.za;e-mail: johann@boereplaas.co.za; Tel. +27 53 9274462). It has good facilities and the chalets are neat and efficient, but it could be overcrowded for birders over weekends. You have access to the farm to bird. There is an a la carte restaurant which serves excellent food.
The last day we headed from Vryburg to Beaufort West and new birds for the trip list were SA SHELDUCK, MOUNTAIN WHEATEAR and CAPE BUNTING.
We ended the trip with 370 species.
~ Japie
