Kwa-Zulu Natal 2005
On 5 March 2005 twelve birders from the Western Cape and one from Natal left on a birding trip to Natal. The Nataller was picked up on day 2 at Ingogo.
DAY 1 : PRINCE ALBERT TO WILLEM PRETORIUS GAME RES.
We started off early because it was a long drive to our first overnight destination. Birding started at the start and we picked up Karoo Chat, Karoo Korhaan and Pied Starling. About 3 km north of Leeu Gamka we stopped to watch a magnificient Martial eagle on a powerline pole near its nest. Further along the road we saw Pale Chanting Goshawk sitting on their favourite spots, the telephone line poles, Jackal Buzzard, Mountain Chat, Karoo Robin, Fiscal Shrike, Palewinged Starling and Barn Swallow. From time to time we got the scavengers of the road, Pied and Black Crow. Just 10 km north of Beaufort West we had excellent views of Ludwig’s Bustards and Secretarybirds walking in the veld next to the road. About 30 km north of Three Sisters towards Richmond we saw our first SA Cliff Swallows of the trip, the most southernly colony along the N1. Nearer to Richmond we got our first Lesser Kestrels and towards Hanover there were more of them. Steppe Buzzards were also seen near Hanover, but our search for Blue Korhaan from Hanover northwards was without success. We crossed into the Free State but saw very few new birds for the list except Whitequilled Korhaan. We had lunch at the Shell Ultra City north of Bloemfontein and some guys could have a look at some lifers in a cage at the filling station. Now, they knew what they are looking for. Just after 4 p.m. we arrived at Willem Pretorius Game Reserve at the banks of the Allemanskraal Dam. As most of SA dams, this one is also very empty with only about 10 – 15% water. We stayed at the nature conservation resort. It has lovely chalets and the camping area is clean and neat. Ablutions are up to standard and we couldn’t find anything to complain off. (Contact tel. +27 57 6514004 – Freestate Nature Conservation or Aldam resort tel. +27 57 6522200) The resort is recommended to birders and inside it you will find a lot of birders like Crested Barbet, Yellow Canary, Wattled Starling, Glossy Starling, Whitebrowed Sparrow – weaver, Cape Robin,etc. A walk to the edge of the dam produced Redbreasted Swallow, Greater Striped Swallow, Whiterumped Swift, Darter, Great White Egret, Hamerkop, Afr Spoonbill, Cape Shoveller, Spurwinged Geese, Caspian and Whiskered Tern. We ended the day with a good 101 species.
DAY 2: WILLEM PRETORIUS GR TO INGOGO
As usual the day started early at about 5.30 is and as the plains of the Free State awakes the birds also. While packing up a Blackcrowned Night Heron flew past as well as Sacred Ibis, Darter, Redbilled Teal, etc.
On leaving the campsite we had our first views of Swainson’s Francolin, saw Diederik Cuckoo, Namaqua Dove, Rufousnaped Lark, Afr Pied Barbet and Eastern Clapper Lark. We took the road right through the game reserve to the eastern gate. This game reserve hosts a lot of birds and a longer stay can be very productive. Along the road we had Redbacked Shrike, Icterine Warbler, Jacobin Cuckoo, Sabota Lark, Larklike Bunting, Mocking Chat, Afr Rock Pipit, Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe, Capped Wheatear, Sicklewinged and Anteating Chat, Desert Barred Warbler (which was a lifer to many), Desert Cisticola, Pririt Batis, Whitewinged Widow, Golden Bishop and Rock Bunting. The cherry was a huge flock of Blackwinged Pratincoles hunting over the grass plains, flying at a massive speed. Willem Pretorius gave us 87 species and outside we saw lots of Amur Falcon. Just west of Bethlehem we had our first Southern Balb Ibises feeding in a ploughed field. North of Warden we had excellent views of some Blue Korhaans next to the road and only 5 km further we saw a male Montague’s Harrier swooping over the veld. At Ingogo we stayed at a private game farm and ended the day with 108 species.
DAY 3: INGOGO TO ZINKWAZI LAGOON LODGE
It was a misty morning in Ingogo with lots of Amur Falcon sitting on the power lines and Barn Swallows discussing the weather, if it was time to leave or have they to stay a few more days. The road took us via Utrecht, Blood River and Nqutu to Eshowe. A little drizzle fell and except for some White Storks along the road, birding was quiet. Just after the turn off to Blood River we had good views of a Gymnogene at a tree. We saw Greenspotted Dove, Bearded Woodpecker, Rufousnaped Lark, Blackcollared Barbet, Chinspot Batis and Redshouldered Widow.
Past Blood River in a rural area we saw some Redheaded Finches and further on some Yellowbilled Kite, Whitebacked Vulture and as we nearer the forest area, our first Longcrested Eagle. While stopping in Eshowe we were entertained by Trumpeter Hornbills.
Zinkwazi Lagoon Lodge is situated in a magnificent birding environment. The plants are lush with enough shelter for all that difficult forest birds. (Contact tel. +27 32 485 3344; e-mail: zinkwazi@caraville.co.za; web: www.caraville.co.za/zinkwazi )Purplecrested Lourie, Black Flycatcher, Yellowbellied Bulbul, Collared Sunbird, Spectacled Weaver and Natal Robin are all inhabitants of the lodge. Along the lagoon White–eared Barbet and we saw Kittlitz’s Plover, Water Dikkop, Common, Wood and Marsh Sandpiper, while Goldenrumped Tinker Barbet was calling from the thickets. We ended the day with 121 species.
DAY 4: NGOYE AND DLINZA FORESTS
It was a very early start for the journey to Ngoye. We picked our guide, Thabile, up at Dlinza at 6 am. On our way we had a Black Sparrowhawk crossing the road and we entered Ngoye from the eastern side. The grassveld had lots of Croaking Cisticola, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Rattling and Fantailed Cisticola. We found Woodward’s Barbet at the first patch of forest, but it won’t show itself well. Listening to their calls, it is not a scarce bird in the forest. In the meantime we had good views of Crowned Hornbill, Purplecrested Lourie, Puffback, Blackheaded Oriole. Thabile located a very “tame” barbet deeper into the forest and everyone had good views of this rare bird. On the way to Dlinza we popped in at Umlalazi nature reserve. It was on midday and the birds’ siesta. We saw Woollynecked Stork, Little Egret, Burchell’s Coucal, Yellowbellied Bulbul, Olive Sunbird and Bronze Mannikin. No Palmnut Vultures. When we arrived at Dlinza a huge thunderstorm was building up and it was very dark inside the forest. Birds were inactive and difficult to locate. On the boardwalk we saw Grey Cuckooshrike, Blackbellied Starling, Scarletchested Sunbird, Cinnamon Dove and Cape Batis. No Delegorgue’s Pigeons, but near the entrance we got Spotted Thrush. A real well camouflages bird in the forest and that’s way it is so difficult to locate. Well, the big storm missed Eshowe, but back at Zinkwazi you could see the real storm with hail had scattered the branches and our tent was blown down, leaving us with wet bedding. It still rained on and off, but luckily some stayed in a chalet, so we could prepare food under roof.
We ended the day with 72 species.
DAY 5: ZINKWAZI TO BONAMANZI
We went on a detour to Richard’s Bay and as we have to wait until 8 am to get our deposits back from the office, we had some time to bird in Zinkwazi. In Richard’s Bay we used a guide, Sfundo Gumbi. Our main target was the harbour area and Thulasihleka Pan. We didn’t see a lot of birds but got Pallid Flycatcher, Yelloweyed and Bully Canary, Purplebanded Sunbird and a very noisy Great Reed Warbler, which wouldn’t show itself. At the harbour site we saw Grey Plover and Curlew. The pan started with a Little Bittern, Common, Whiskered and Whitewinged Terns, Goliath and Purple Heron and some ducks.
We left for Bonamanzi and this place boosted with birds. As we entered, a little dam hosted Pygmy Geese and Whitefaced Duck. En route to the office we saw Goldentailed Woodpecker, Southern Black Tit, Yellowthroated Sparrow, Eur Roller and Bluegrey Flycatcher.The personnel of Bonamanzi are very friendly and professional. We stayed in the Game Lodge, which is a good place for a group. Facilities are excellent with all the necessary equipment. What a place to stand under the twinkling stars at a braaivleis fire. (Contact tel. +27 35 562 0181; e-mail: info@bonamanzi.co.za. ; web: www.bonamanzi.co.za.) The day’s total was 106 species.
DAY 6: BONAMANZI
We took an early try for the African Broadbill, but without any success. We had Forest Weaver, Orangebreasted Bush Shrike, Yellow White-eye and Bluecheeked Bee-eater. At the camping site were Little Sparrowhawk, African Goshawk, Crowned Hornbill and Cardinal Woodpecker. We located the Green Coucal with ease at Treehouse 8, but it hides in the top, so it took some time to see it. We had also good views of Cuckoo Hawk and Rudd’s Apalis. In the afternoon a heavy thunderstorm break loose and we were pleased that we were in the game lodge. The day’s total was 61 species.
DAY 7: BONAMANZI TO ABU MADI GAME RANCH
The day started very early because we booked a drive to the Hluhluwe floodplains which starts at 6 am. We had to pack up before that to empty the lodge in time. After the previous nights heavy rain (40 mm), it looked if the weather was becoming better. We were on 2 vehicles with Richard en Bheki as our guides. They are very good, the best we had in Natal. The roads were extreme wet and slippery, but they handled the vehicles magnificent. At the floodplain, they left one vehicle at the top and Richard slided down the hill with the other one. Once down, all of us jumped on the one vehicle and there we went in search for the Rosy-throated Longclaw. Amongst the Nguni cattle we drove and then Bheki spotted it. We got good views of it and of Grass Owl, waders, Common Quail and Wattled Plover. I was really sceptic if the Land Rover should make it up hill again, but Richard unloaded us at the foot of the hill and then charged up the hill. The rain started coming down again, but after a cup of coffee, we were willing to look for the Black Coucal. Bheki’s vehicle was lucky enough to get one, but the other vehicle missed out. It rained harder and we decided to call it a day at Bonamanzi. We went slip-slip through Hluhluwe and on to Abu Madi. Abu Madi is a game ranch 8 km west of Mkuze and has a lodge, a bush camp and a campsite. That is a very bird friendly place and the owner is very helpful to his guests. You can walk anywhere on the ranch and it has a bird list of about 350 species. We can really recommend this place to birders from where you can explore the rest of the area. (Contact tel. +27 35 573 1233/ +27 83 441 6424; e-mail: mbalcomb@iafrica.com. ; web:www.hluhluwe.net/abumadi ) Birds seen here were Melba Finch, Crested Guineafowl, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, White Helmetshrike, Plumcoloured Starling, Black Cuckooshrike, Striped Kingfisher and many more. Then there is the half – tame porcupines, appearing every night to eat their food, which is placed on the lawn for them. The lodge has also a magnificent boma where you can spend the evening around a campfire with the call of the Fierynecked Nightjar. As we count the birds after the braai we had 98 species.
DAY 8: MKUZE GAME RESERVE
We went early to Mkuze, but the birds along the road through Abu Madi and en route to Mkuze town were quiet magnificent and worthwhile.
Mkuze was wet after the rains, but very quiet. It was not the same place that we were in before and up to the main camp we only got a handful of birds like Broadbilled Roller, Orangebreasted Bush Shrike, Striped Kingfisher and Southern Black Tit. There were no birds at the little pool at the rest camp and even in the camp self was only Redbacked Shrike.
We drove down to Nsumo Pan and got Flappet Lark, Paradise Whydah, Yellowthroated Sparrow, Icterine Warbler and Cardinal Woodpecker. Nsumo Pan was very full of water and even at the main hide you have to be scared for crocodile as the water was surrounded the hide. At the picnic spot we saw Rudd’s Apalis and had great views on the Yellowbilled Stork and Pinkbacked Pelican colonies. The weather started to make huge clouds and we decided that it would be best to return to Abu Madi before more comes down. Although Mkuze was very quiet, we saw 85 species in the reserve and 134 species for the day.
DAY 9: ST LUCIA
We went all the way back to St Lucia for the day and tried for some of the specials. On the way we saw Lesser Spotted Eagle and magnificent Longcrested Eagles. At the bridge over the lake we got Thickbilled Weaver building nest and on the iGwalagwala trail Livingstone’s Lourie, Natal, Chorister & Brown Robin, Trumpeter Hornbill, Blackheaded Oriole and Terrestrial Bulbul. On the lake were Goliath Heron, Woollynecked Stork and an Afr Marsh Harrier. We didn’t get Woodward’s Batis.
We enjoyed lunch at the Quarterdeck Restaurant and there after we checked the mouth of the lake. Interested birds were an Osprey flying over, Afr Fish Eagle, Curlew Sandpiper, Swift Tern, Ringed Plover, Olive Sunbird and the great one, Sand Plover. On returning to Abu Madi we found a flock of Crested Guineafowl in the road. We totalled the day with 153 species.
DAY 10: ABU MADI TO NDUMU RIVER LODGE
We left early morning as we had an appointment with the guide at Muzi pan, Bheki. We didn’t see many birds along the road via Hluhluwe and as we picked up Bheki, we headed for the main target, Pel’s Fishing Owl. Bheki took us to the hotspot and with his excellent field skills, he located the owl with ease. All of us except one had beautiful views of this magnificent bird before it flew off. Other birds in the area were Green Pigeon, Redfaced Cisticola, Purplecrested Lourie, Puffback and Greyheaded Bush Shrike. We went back to the pans itself which boosted with birds like Fulvous Duck, Black & Great White Egret, White Pelicans, Woodland Kingfisher, Squacco Heron and Pygmy Goose. Bheki is a very good and knowledgeable guide and he can be recommended to birders.
We continued to Ndumu River Lodge and on the way we had a look at the pan just before Kwangwanase, but it was bone dry. We saw Montague’s Harrier hovering over the grass. Ndumu River Lodge is a new place next to the Pongola River and a very good stopover. It is still develop, but chalets are well situated amongst the indigenous trees. Some of us had a cold beer on the deck at the restaurant, while the other cool down in the swimming pool. (Contact tel +27 35 591 0011; web: www.ndumu.com. e-mail:ndumuriverlodge@ndumu.com.) We ended the day with 135 species.
DAY 11: NDUMO GAME RESERVE
Early the next morning the most of us headed for Ndumo Game Reserve. The expert guide, Bongani, was on leave, but the office assured me that there would be a guide to take us on a walk. We met Tembisa at the office and he took us down to Nyamithi Pan. Parking along the pan, we walked the shoreline and saw Water Dikkop, Ringed Plover, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Pied Kingfisher, Greenbacked Heron, Yellowbilled Stork, Bluegrey Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, Plumcoloured Starling and a magnificent pair of Southern Banded Snake Eagle, a species which has eluded us so far. Tembisa is a very good guide and we left the pan after four and a half-hour. Just before the rest camp we spotted a Lizard Buzzard and in the rest camp Yellow White-eye, Scarletchested Sunbird, Greyheaded Bush Shrike, Yellowbreasted Apalis, etc. A drive down to the picnic spot along the Usutu River delivered not much except Melba Finch and Redshouldered Widow. On our way back to the gate, a heavy storm broke out. On our way to the lodge we heard Green Coucal calling along the road. In the lodge’s grounds we found Pygmy Kingfisher and at dusk some had a glimpse of the Bat Hawk at the bridge over the Pongola River. We recorded 131 species for the day.
DAY 12: NDUMU RIVER LODGE TO MADAKA GAME RANCH
We left early the next morning for Madaka Game Ranch next to the Ithala Game Reserve via Jozini. The commonest bird along the road was European Roller, but spotted a few Namaqua Doves and a hamerkop as well.We stopped at the Jozini Dam but only found Pied Wagtail and Wiretailed Swallow. We continued and decided to make a detour to Phongola Nature Reserve near Golela. What a gem it is? From the start the area boosted with birds. We saw Afr Fish Eagle, Bateleur and Whitebacked Vulture gliding together, a Gymnogene, Martial Eagle and Sabota Lark. At the camping site along the dam we picked up Wattled Plover, Whitewinged Widow, Longtailed Shrike, Arrowmarked Babbler, Great White Egret, Longbilled Crombec, Marico Sunbird, Redbilled Buffalo Weaver and Jacobin Cuckoo. An European Hobby past by at a huge speed and on leaving the camp site we spotted a Pearlspotted Owl, followed by amazing sightings of Burntnecked Eremomela. We also had Grey Hornbill, Gabar Goshawk and Jacobin Cuckoo in conflict, lots of Amur Falcon patrolling the shores of the dam, Secretarybird and Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe. After 4 hours in the reserve we left with 62 species for it. While another thunderstorm raised in the sky, we headed for Madaka Game Ranch. The ranch bordered Ithala Game reserve on the southwestern side and has a nice campsite along a river and some chalets and restored farmhouse on the other side of the river. The big storm missed us and we put up tents in a little drizzle.
Madaka Game Ranch has a lot of game and the birds are as good as these of Ithala. You can enter Ithala direct from Madaka and the scenic views are brilliant. The campsite is well grassed with an interesting ablution block build with reeds but very effective. The chalets are well kept with all the necessary equipment and a beautiful view on the ranch. For larger groups, there is the restored farmhouse and a dining area when needed. Madaka can really be recommended for an alternative for Ithala and is very birders friendly.Contact tel +27 82 967 8219; e-mail: stours@bundunet.co.za. ; web: www.envim.com/madaka. We ended the day with 118 species.
DAY 13: ITHALA GAME RESERVE
The day started very cloudy and we didn’t really know if the sun would shine. We left for Ithala on a wet road, but the birds are active despite the clouds. A giraffe on the ranch hosted a few Redbilled Oxpeckers, while Whitethroated Robin has been seen along the streams that we crossed.
Ithala will be always a gem with the mountains, vegetation, animals and birds. A wet African Hawk Eagle posed well and we had views of Jacobin, Klaas’s & Diederik Cuckoo, Goldentailed & Bearded Woodpecker, Pygmy Kingfisher, Cape Rock Thrush, Afr. Black & Alpine Swifts along the cliffs, Whitebrowed Robin, Puffback, Brubru and Rock Bunting. As we nearer the rest camp, a pair of Black Eagles soared above the mountain and the little dam produced a Little Bittern. From the rest camp we headed down to the Pongola River. We got Yellowthroated & Orangethroated Longclaw in the grassy area, a lot of cisticolas which are very difficult to identify correctly this time of the year but we sorted out Fantailed, croaking and Neddicky, a beautiful pair of Secretarybirds, Bushveld Pipit, Chinspot Batis and Arrowmarked Babbler. The picnic spot along the Pongola River is very good and they are improving the ablution facilities at the moment. We saw Green Pigeon, Redfaced Mousebird, Melba Finch, Whitebellied Sunbird and Brownhooded Kingfisher. On the way back we had Striped Pipit and Streakyheaded Canary. A huge thunderstorm was building up and we had to rush for our camp before the rivers would cut us off. We had good views of Fantailed Flycatcher, Lanner Falcon, Bateleur and a group of Tsessebe. Our total for the day was 127 species and 86 species for Ithala alone.
DAY 14: MADAKA GAME RANCH TO INGOGO
After the previous afternoon’s storm which turned the stream next to the campsite into a muddy river, it drizzled on and off during the night. Luckily when we had to break off camp, the rain had stopped. Our first surprise of the day was when one of the groups spotted a Fierynecked Nightjar where it sat on a stump. That gave good views of a bird you normally see as a silhouette in the evenings. On our way out we had Rock Bunting, Burchell's Coucal and Jackal Buzzard. The highlight however were Barn Swallows gathering on the telephone lines, an estimated 3000 of them. This was really magnificent. On our way we turned into the Vryheid Hill Nature Reserve near Vryheid. It was quiet a good stop over and we saw Jameson’s Robbin, Buffstreaked Chat, Blackcollared Barbet, Cloud & Palecrowned Cisticola, Afr Black Duck, Secretarybird and the cherry on top, 2 Mountain Pipits. They sat in the road, their dark marked upper breasted and large malar stripe prominent, and the belly a buffy colour as well as the outer tail feathers. Further en route we could mark off Black Stork at a little dam. At the game farm near Ingogo we went in search for the Whitebellied Korhaans, but without success. We found Swainson’s Francolin, Quail Finch, Banded Martin and Spotted Dikkop. We ended the day with 98 species.
DAY 15: WAKKERSTROOM
We headed early for Wakkerstroom to try to find some of the specials. As we turn off the Volksrust / Wakkerstroom road we had Blue Crane, thousands of Amur Falcon with in between some Western Redfooted Kestrels, a Black Sparrowhawk flew from one stand of blue gums to another, Greywing Francolin and Blue Korhaan. We got permission to walk on the piece of field where Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks normally occur and easily spotted a lot of Botha’s Larks. On returning to the vehicles some of the group spotted a Rudd’s Lark which gave good close-up views. Well we got 2 of the endemic, so we headed to a place to try for the Bush Blackcap. On the way we saw Crowned Crane and Redwinged Francolin, Martial Eagle and Lanner Falcons. The Bush Blackcap responded to the call, but it stayed very shy and only 2 or 3 of the group saw it. Near the vlei we ticked some Southern Balb Ibises and at the vlei Blackcrowned Night Heron, Afr Marsh Harrier, Yellowbilled Egret, Wattled Plover and Cape Canary. We couldn’t find the Redthroated Wryneck and some had only glimpses of the Yellowbreasted Pipits before it flew out of sight. Back at Ingogo our search for the Whitebellied Korhaan was successful. We could end the day with 117 species.
DAY 16: INGOGO TO PRINCE ALBERT
We had a very long distance on the last day, so we left early and there was not much time for birding. Along the road we added Knobbilled Duck, Marsh Owl, Chestnutbacked Finchlark, Eurasian Swift, Burchell’s Courser and Namaqua Sandgrouse to our trip list.We ended this very enjoyable trip after 5142 km with 396 bird species and a lot of good remembrance.
~ Japie
DAY 1 : PRINCE ALBERT TO WILLEM PRETORIUS GAME RES.
We started off early because it was a long drive to our first overnight destination. Birding started at the start and we picked up Karoo Chat, Karoo Korhaan and Pied Starling. About 3 km north of Leeu Gamka we stopped to watch a magnificient Martial eagle on a powerline pole near its nest. Further along the road we saw Pale Chanting Goshawk sitting on their favourite spots, the telephone line poles, Jackal Buzzard, Mountain Chat, Karoo Robin, Fiscal Shrike, Palewinged Starling and Barn Swallow. From time to time we got the scavengers of the road, Pied and Black Crow. Just 10 km north of Beaufort West we had excellent views of Ludwig’s Bustards and Secretarybirds walking in the veld next to the road. About 30 km north of Three Sisters towards Richmond we saw our first SA Cliff Swallows of the trip, the most southernly colony along the N1. Nearer to Richmond we got our first Lesser Kestrels and towards Hanover there were more of them. Steppe Buzzards were also seen near Hanover, but our search for Blue Korhaan from Hanover northwards was without success. We crossed into the Free State but saw very few new birds for the list except Whitequilled Korhaan. We had lunch at the Shell Ultra City north of Bloemfontein and some guys could have a look at some lifers in a cage at the filling station. Now, they knew what they are looking for. Just after 4 p.m. we arrived at Willem Pretorius Game Reserve at the banks of the Allemanskraal Dam. As most of SA dams, this one is also very empty with only about 10 – 15% water. We stayed at the nature conservation resort. It has lovely chalets and the camping area is clean and neat. Ablutions are up to standard and we couldn’t find anything to complain off. (Contact tel. +27 57 6514004 – Freestate Nature Conservation or Aldam resort tel. +27 57 6522200) The resort is recommended to birders and inside it you will find a lot of birders like Crested Barbet, Yellow Canary, Wattled Starling, Glossy Starling, Whitebrowed Sparrow – weaver, Cape Robin,etc. A walk to the edge of the dam produced Redbreasted Swallow, Greater Striped Swallow, Whiterumped Swift, Darter, Great White Egret, Hamerkop, Afr Spoonbill, Cape Shoveller, Spurwinged Geese, Caspian and Whiskered Tern. We ended the day with a good 101 species.
DAY 2: WILLEM PRETORIUS GR TO INGOGO
As usual the day started early at about 5.30 is and as the plains of the Free State awakes the birds also. While packing up a Blackcrowned Night Heron flew past as well as Sacred Ibis, Darter, Redbilled Teal, etc.
On leaving the campsite we had our first views of Swainson’s Francolin, saw Diederik Cuckoo, Namaqua Dove, Rufousnaped Lark, Afr Pied Barbet and Eastern Clapper Lark. We took the road right through the game reserve to the eastern gate. This game reserve hosts a lot of birds and a longer stay can be very productive. Along the road we had Redbacked Shrike, Icterine Warbler, Jacobin Cuckoo, Sabota Lark, Larklike Bunting, Mocking Chat, Afr Rock Pipit, Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe, Capped Wheatear, Sicklewinged and Anteating Chat, Desert Barred Warbler (which was a lifer to many), Desert Cisticola, Pririt Batis, Whitewinged Widow, Golden Bishop and Rock Bunting. The cherry was a huge flock of Blackwinged Pratincoles hunting over the grass plains, flying at a massive speed. Willem Pretorius gave us 87 species and outside we saw lots of Amur Falcon. Just west of Bethlehem we had our first Southern Balb Ibises feeding in a ploughed field. North of Warden we had excellent views of some Blue Korhaans next to the road and only 5 km further we saw a male Montague’s Harrier swooping over the veld. At Ingogo we stayed at a private game farm and ended the day with 108 species.
DAY 3: INGOGO TO ZINKWAZI LAGOON LODGE
It was a misty morning in Ingogo with lots of Amur Falcon sitting on the power lines and Barn Swallows discussing the weather, if it was time to leave or have they to stay a few more days. The road took us via Utrecht, Blood River and Nqutu to Eshowe. A little drizzle fell and except for some White Storks along the road, birding was quiet. Just after the turn off to Blood River we had good views of a Gymnogene at a tree. We saw Greenspotted Dove, Bearded Woodpecker, Rufousnaped Lark, Blackcollared Barbet, Chinspot Batis and Redshouldered Widow.
Past Blood River in a rural area we saw some Redheaded Finches and further on some Yellowbilled Kite, Whitebacked Vulture and as we nearer the forest area, our first Longcrested Eagle. While stopping in Eshowe we were entertained by Trumpeter Hornbills.
Zinkwazi Lagoon Lodge is situated in a magnificent birding environment. The plants are lush with enough shelter for all that difficult forest birds. (Contact tel. +27 32 485 3344; e-mail: zinkwazi@caraville.co.za; web: www.caraville.co.za/zinkwazi )Purplecrested Lourie, Black Flycatcher, Yellowbellied Bulbul, Collared Sunbird, Spectacled Weaver and Natal Robin are all inhabitants of the lodge. Along the lagoon White–eared Barbet and we saw Kittlitz’s Plover, Water Dikkop, Common, Wood and Marsh Sandpiper, while Goldenrumped Tinker Barbet was calling from the thickets. We ended the day with 121 species.
DAY 4: NGOYE AND DLINZA FORESTS
It was a very early start for the journey to Ngoye. We picked our guide, Thabile, up at Dlinza at 6 am. On our way we had a Black Sparrowhawk crossing the road and we entered Ngoye from the eastern side. The grassveld had lots of Croaking Cisticola, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Rattling and Fantailed Cisticola. We found Woodward’s Barbet at the first patch of forest, but it won’t show itself well. Listening to their calls, it is not a scarce bird in the forest. In the meantime we had good views of Crowned Hornbill, Purplecrested Lourie, Puffback, Blackheaded Oriole. Thabile located a very “tame” barbet deeper into the forest and everyone had good views of this rare bird. On the way to Dlinza we popped in at Umlalazi nature reserve. It was on midday and the birds’ siesta. We saw Woollynecked Stork, Little Egret, Burchell’s Coucal, Yellowbellied Bulbul, Olive Sunbird and Bronze Mannikin. No Palmnut Vultures. When we arrived at Dlinza a huge thunderstorm was building up and it was very dark inside the forest. Birds were inactive and difficult to locate. On the boardwalk we saw Grey Cuckooshrike, Blackbellied Starling, Scarletchested Sunbird, Cinnamon Dove and Cape Batis. No Delegorgue’s Pigeons, but near the entrance we got Spotted Thrush. A real well camouflages bird in the forest and that’s way it is so difficult to locate. Well, the big storm missed Eshowe, but back at Zinkwazi you could see the real storm with hail had scattered the branches and our tent was blown down, leaving us with wet bedding. It still rained on and off, but luckily some stayed in a chalet, so we could prepare food under roof.
We ended the day with 72 species.
DAY 5: ZINKWAZI TO BONAMANZI
We went on a detour to Richard’s Bay and as we have to wait until 8 am to get our deposits back from the office, we had some time to bird in Zinkwazi. In Richard’s Bay we used a guide, Sfundo Gumbi. Our main target was the harbour area and Thulasihleka Pan. We didn’t see a lot of birds but got Pallid Flycatcher, Yelloweyed and Bully Canary, Purplebanded Sunbird and a very noisy Great Reed Warbler, which wouldn’t show itself. At the harbour site we saw Grey Plover and Curlew. The pan started with a Little Bittern, Common, Whiskered and Whitewinged Terns, Goliath and Purple Heron and some ducks.
We left for Bonamanzi and this place boosted with birds. As we entered, a little dam hosted Pygmy Geese and Whitefaced Duck. En route to the office we saw Goldentailed Woodpecker, Southern Black Tit, Yellowthroated Sparrow, Eur Roller and Bluegrey Flycatcher.The personnel of Bonamanzi are very friendly and professional. We stayed in the Game Lodge, which is a good place for a group. Facilities are excellent with all the necessary equipment. What a place to stand under the twinkling stars at a braaivleis fire. (Contact tel. +27 35 562 0181; e-mail: info@bonamanzi.co.za. ; web: www.bonamanzi.co.za.) The day’s total was 106 species.
DAY 6: BONAMANZI
We took an early try for the African Broadbill, but without any success. We had Forest Weaver, Orangebreasted Bush Shrike, Yellow White-eye and Bluecheeked Bee-eater. At the camping site were Little Sparrowhawk, African Goshawk, Crowned Hornbill and Cardinal Woodpecker. We located the Green Coucal with ease at Treehouse 8, but it hides in the top, so it took some time to see it. We had also good views of Cuckoo Hawk and Rudd’s Apalis. In the afternoon a heavy thunderstorm break loose and we were pleased that we were in the game lodge. The day’s total was 61 species.
DAY 7: BONAMANZI TO ABU MADI GAME RANCH
The day started very early because we booked a drive to the Hluhluwe floodplains which starts at 6 am. We had to pack up before that to empty the lodge in time. After the previous nights heavy rain (40 mm), it looked if the weather was becoming better. We were on 2 vehicles with Richard en Bheki as our guides. They are very good, the best we had in Natal. The roads were extreme wet and slippery, but they handled the vehicles magnificent. At the floodplain, they left one vehicle at the top and Richard slided down the hill with the other one. Once down, all of us jumped on the one vehicle and there we went in search for the Rosy-throated Longclaw. Amongst the Nguni cattle we drove and then Bheki spotted it. We got good views of it and of Grass Owl, waders, Common Quail and Wattled Plover. I was really sceptic if the Land Rover should make it up hill again, but Richard unloaded us at the foot of the hill and then charged up the hill. The rain started coming down again, but after a cup of coffee, we were willing to look for the Black Coucal. Bheki’s vehicle was lucky enough to get one, but the other vehicle missed out. It rained harder and we decided to call it a day at Bonamanzi. We went slip-slip through Hluhluwe and on to Abu Madi. Abu Madi is a game ranch 8 km west of Mkuze and has a lodge, a bush camp and a campsite. That is a very bird friendly place and the owner is very helpful to his guests. You can walk anywhere on the ranch and it has a bird list of about 350 species. We can really recommend this place to birders from where you can explore the rest of the area. (Contact tel. +27 35 573 1233/ +27 83 441 6424; e-mail: mbalcomb@iafrica.com. ; web:www.hluhluwe.net/abumadi ) Birds seen here were Melba Finch, Crested Guineafowl, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, White Helmetshrike, Plumcoloured Starling, Black Cuckooshrike, Striped Kingfisher and many more. Then there is the half – tame porcupines, appearing every night to eat their food, which is placed on the lawn for them. The lodge has also a magnificent boma where you can spend the evening around a campfire with the call of the Fierynecked Nightjar. As we count the birds after the braai we had 98 species.
DAY 8: MKUZE GAME RESERVE
We went early to Mkuze, but the birds along the road through Abu Madi and en route to Mkuze town were quiet magnificent and worthwhile.
Mkuze was wet after the rains, but very quiet. It was not the same place that we were in before and up to the main camp we only got a handful of birds like Broadbilled Roller, Orangebreasted Bush Shrike, Striped Kingfisher and Southern Black Tit. There were no birds at the little pool at the rest camp and even in the camp self was only Redbacked Shrike.
We drove down to Nsumo Pan and got Flappet Lark, Paradise Whydah, Yellowthroated Sparrow, Icterine Warbler and Cardinal Woodpecker. Nsumo Pan was very full of water and even at the main hide you have to be scared for crocodile as the water was surrounded the hide. At the picnic spot we saw Rudd’s Apalis and had great views on the Yellowbilled Stork and Pinkbacked Pelican colonies. The weather started to make huge clouds and we decided that it would be best to return to Abu Madi before more comes down. Although Mkuze was very quiet, we saw 85 species in the reserve and 134 species for the day.
DAY 9: ST LUCIA
We went all the way back to St Lucia for the day and tried for some of the specials. On the way we saw Lesser Spotted Eagle and magnificent Longcrested Eagles. At the bridge over the lake we got Thickbilled Weaver building nest and on the iGwalagwala trail Livingstone’s Lourie, Natal, Chorister & Brown Robin, Trumpeter Hornbill, Blackheaded Oriole and Terrestrial Bulbul. On the lake were Goliath Heron, Woollynecked Stork and an Afr Marsh Harrier. We didn’t get Woodward’s Batis.
We enjoyed lunch at the Quarterdeck Restaurant and there after we checked the mouth of the lake. Interested birds were an Osprey flying over, Afr Fish Eagle, Curlew Sandpiper, Swift Tern, Ringed Plover, Olive Sunbird and the great one, Sand Plover. On returning to Abu Madi we found a flock of Crested Guineafowl in the road. We totalled the day with 153 species.
DAY 10: ABU MADI TO NDUMU RIVER LODGE
We left early morning as we had an appointment with the guide at Muzi pan, Bheki. We didn’t see many birds along the road via Hluhluwe and as we picked up Bheki, we headed for the main target, Pel’s Fishing Owl. Bheki took us to the hotspot and with his excellent field skills, he located the owl with ease. All of us except one had beautiful views of this magnificent bird before it flew off. Other birds in the area were Green Pigeon, Redfaced Cisticola, Purplecrested Lourie, Puffback and Greyheaded Bush Shrike. We went back to the pans itself which boosted with birds like Fulvous Duck, Black & Great White Egret, White Pelicans, Woodland Kingfisher, Squacco Heron and Pygmy Goose. Bheki is a very good and knowledgeable guide and he can be recommended to birders.
We continued to Ndumu River Lodge and on the way we had a look at the pan just before Kwangwanase, but it was bone dry. We saw Montague’s Harrier hovering over the grass. Ndumu River Lodge is a new place next to the Pongola River and a very good stopover. It is still develop, but chalets are well situated amongst the indigenous trees. Some of us had a cold beer on the deck at the restaurant, while the other cool down in the swimming pool. (Contact tel +27 35 591 0011; web: www.ndumu.com. e-mail:ndumuriverlodge@ndumu.com.) We ended the day with 135 species.
DAY 11: NDUMO GAME RESERVE
Early the next morning the most of us headed for Ndumo Game Reserve. The expert guide, Bongani, was on leave, but the office assured me that there would be a guide to take us on a walk. We met Tembisa at the office and he took us down to Nyamithi Pan. Parking along the pan, we walked the shoreline and saw Water Dikkop, Ringed Plover, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Pied Kingfisher, Greenbacked Heron, Yellowbilled Stork, Bluegrey Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, Plumcoloured Starling and a magnificent pair of Southern Banded Snake Eagle, a species which has eluded us so far. Tembisa is a very good guide and we left the pan after four and a half-hour. Just before the rest camp we spotted a Lizard Buzzard and in the rest camp Yellow White-eye, Scarletchested Sunbird, Greyheaded Bush Shrike, Yellowbreasted Apalis, etc. A drive down to the picnic spot along the Usutu River delivered not much except Melba Finch and Redshouldered Widow. On our way back to the gate, a heavy storm broke out. On our way to the lodge we heard Green Coucal calling along the road. In the lodge’s grounds we found Pygmy Kingfisher and at dusk some had a glimpse of the Bat Hawk at the bridge over the Pongola River. We recorded 131 species for the day.
DAY 12: NDUMU RIVER LODGE TO MADAKA GAME RANCH
We left early the next morning for Madaka Game Ranch next to the Ithala Game Reserve via Jozini. The commonest bird along the road was European Roller, but spotted a few Namaqua Doves and a hamerkop as well.We stopped at the Jozini Dam but only found Pied Wagtail and Wiretailed Swallow. We continued and decided to make a detour to Phongola Nature Reserve near Golela. What a gem it is? From the start the area boosted with birds. We saw Afr Fish Eagle, Bateleur and Whitebacked Vulture gliding together, a Gymnogene, Martial Eagle and Sabota Lark. At the camping site along the dam we picked up Wattled Plover, Whitewinged Widow, Longtailed Shrike, Arrowmarked Babbler, Great White Egret, Longbilled Crombec, Marico Sunbird, Redbilled Buffalo Weaver and Jacobin Cuckoo. An European Hobby past by at a huge speed and on leaving the camp site we spotted a Pearlspotted Owl, followed by amazing sightings of Burntnecked Eremomela. We also had Grey Hornbill, Gabar Goshawk and Jacobin Cuckoo in conflict, lots of Amur Falcon patrolling the shores of the dam, Secretarybird and Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe. After 4 hours in the reserve we left with 62 species for it. While another thunderstorm raised in the sky, we headed for Madaka Game Ranch. The ranch bordered Ithala Game reserve on the southwestern side and has a nice campsite along a river and some chalets and restored farmhouse on the other side of the river. The big storm missed us and we put up tents in a little drizzle.
Madaka Game Ranch has a lot of game and the birds are as good as these of Ithala. You can enter Ithala direct from Madaka and the scenic views are brilliant. The campsite is well grassed with an interesting ablution block build with reeds but very effective. The chalets are well kept with all the necessary equipment and a beautiful view on the ranch. For larger groups, there is the restored farmhouse and a dining area when needed. Madaka can really be recommended for an alternative for Ithala and is very birders friendly.Contact tel +27 82 967 8219; e-mail: stours@bundunet.co.za. ; web: www.envim.com/madaka. We ended the day with 118 species.
DAY 13: ITHALA GAME RESERVE
The day started very cloudy and we didn’t really know if the sun would shine. We left for Ithala on a wet road, but the birds are active despite the clouds. A giraffe on the ranch hosted a few Redbilled Oxpeckers, while Whitethroated Robin has been seen along the streams that we crossed.
Ithala will be always a gem with the mountains, vegetation, animals and birds. A wet African Hawk Eagle posed well and we had views of Jacobin, Klaas’s & Diederik Cuckoo, Goldentailed & Bearded Woodpecker, Pygmy Kingfisher, Cape Rock Thrush, Afr. Black & Alpine Swifts along the cliffs, Whitebrowed Robin, Puffback, Brubru and Rock Bunting. As we nearer the rest camp, a pair of Black Eagles soared above the mountain and the little dam produced a Little Bittern. From the rest camp we headed down to the Pongola River. We got Yellowthroated & Orangethroated Longclaw in the grassy area, a lot of cisticolas which are very difficult to identify correctly this time of the year but we sorted out Fantailed, croaking and Neddicky, a beautiful pair of Secretarybirds, Bushveld Pipit, Chinspot Batis and Arrowmarked Babbler. The picnic spot along the Pongola River is very good and they are improving the ablution facilities at the moment. We saw Green Pigeon, Redfaced Mousebird, Melba Finch, Whitebellied Sunbird and Brownhooded Kingfisher. On the way back we had Striped Pipit and Streakyheaded Canary. A huge thunderstorm was building up and we had to rush for our camp before the rivers would cut us off. We had good views of Fantailed Flycatcher, Lanner Falcon, Bateleur and a group of Tsessebe. Our total for the day was 127 species and 86 species for Ithala alone.
DAY 14: MADAKA GAME RANCH TO INGOGO
After the previous afternoon’s storm which turned the stream next to the campsite into a muddy river, it drizzled on and off during the night. Luckily when we had to break off camp, the rain had stopped. Our first surprise of the day was when one of the groups spotted a Fierynecked Nightjar where it sat on a stump. That gave good views of a bird you normally see as a silhouette in the evenings. On our way out we had Rock Bunting, Burchell's Coucal and Jackal Buzzard. The highlight however were Barn Swallows gathering on the telephone lines, an estimated 3000 of them. This was really magnificent. On our way we turned into the Vryheid Hill Nature Reserve near Vryheid. It was quiet a good stop over and we saw Jameson’s Robbin, Buffstreaked Chat, Blackcollared Barbet, Cloud & Palecrowned Cisticola, Afr Black Duck, Secretarybird and the cherry on top, 2 Mountain Pipits. They sat in the road, their dark marked upper breasted and large malar stripe prominent, and the belly a buffy colour as well as the outer tail feathers. Further en route we could mark off Black Stork at a little dam. At the game farm near Ingogo we went in search for the Whitebellied Korhaans, but without success. We found Swainson’s Francolin, Quail Finch, Banded Martin and Spotted Dikkop. We ended the day with 98 species.
DAY 15: WAKKERSTROOM
We headed early for Wakkerstroom to try to find some of the specials. As we turn off the Volksrust / Wakkerstroom road we had Blue Crane, thousands of Amur Falcon with in between some Western Redfooted Kestrels, a Black Sparrowhawk flew from one stand of blue gums to another, Greywing Francolin and Blue Korhaan. We got permission to walk on the piece of field where Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks normally occur and easily spotted a lot of Botha’s Larks. On returning to the vehicles some of the group spotted a Rudd’s Lark which gave good close-up views. Well we got 2 of the endemic, so we headed to a place to try for the Bush Blackcap. On the way we saw Crowned Crane and Redwinged Francolin, Martial Eagle and Lanner Falcons. The Bush Blackcap responded to the call, but it stayed very shy and only 2 or 3 of the group saw it. Near the vlei we ticked some Southern Balb Ibises and at the vlei Blackcrowned Night Heron, Afr Marsh Harrier, Yellowbilled Egret, Wattled Plover and Cape Canary. We couldn’t find the Redthroated Wryneck and some had only glimpses of the Yellowbreasted Pipits before it flew out of sight. Back at Ingogo our search for the Whitebellied Korhaan was successful. We could end the day with 117 species.
DAY 16: INGOGO TO PRINCE ALBERT
We had a very long distance on the last day, so we left early and there was not much time for birding. Along the road we added Knobbilled Duck, Marsh Owl, Chestnutbacked Finchlark, Eurasian Swift, Burchell’s Courser and Namaqua Sandgrouse to our trip list.We ended this very enjoyable trip after 5142 km with 396 bird species and a lot of good remembrance.
~ Japie
