Namibia July 2010
I have just returned from a trip to Namibia from 10 to 25 July 2010 with the aim to find the local endemics. It was a fantastic trip for the winter months with 305 bird species and 32 mammal species, a host of plants and some insects.
The trip started in Cape Town on a typical Cape winters day with rain. Our first shift was to Noordoewer and as the rain was coming down, not many birds were active. Along the road we spotted doves, ducks, Red Bishop, a Jackal Buzzard and some sparrows. No chance to look for Protea Canary in Ystervarkspoort as it was pouring but it will definitely help for the flowers of Namaqualand on the next trip. Into Namaqualand and the rain made some breaks but still overcast. We picked up Greater Kestrel, Pale chanting Goshawk and Capped Wheatear to mention a few.
A little dam with some water about 10 km north of Kamieskroon produced the first lifers for some of the people with Black Stork, Mountain Wheatear, Little Grebe, SA Shelduck and Redbilled Teal. Hope that the rain will stop didn’t realize and we had drizzle up to Noordoewer. We passed the border post without any hassles and stay at Orange River Lodge. Around the lodge we saw Brownthroated Martin, Orange River White-eye, and Blackchested Prinia without its black band and Whitethroated Canary. The lodge has good comfortable rooms for a one night stay.
The next morning we headed firstly for the Orange River below the lodge to give some people early lifers like Orange River White-eye, Namaqua Warbler, Pririt Batis, Common Scimitarbill and Dusky Sunbird. We took the road through the Namibia Richtersveld to Sendelingsdrift. The road is now tarred as far as Aussenkerr and the irrigation fields hosted Cattle Egret, Redeyed Dove, Palewinged Starling and Afr Hoopoe. The open barren ground hosted Redcapped larks and Tractrac Chat. The river and some reedbeds were home to Goliath Heron, Little Egret, Pied Kingfisher, Common Waxbill and Lesser Swamp Warbler.
Shortly after entering the Ai-Ais / Richtersveld Transfrontier Park we got our first Swallowtailed Bee-eaters, followed by an Afr Fish Eagle, Longbilled Crombec, Chestnutvented Titbabbler and Zitting Cisticola. In a track along an irrigation field on a lonely farm, 100 km west of Noordoewer, we spotted a few male and female Doublebanded Sandgrouses, really a surprise but I saw the field guides know about them here. Other birds in the area were Namaqua Dove, Blackheaded and Damara Canary, Cardinal Woodpecker, Black Stork and Karoo Longbilled Lark. Close to the pump station which pumps water to Rosh Pinah a Cape Francolin walked out off the riverine scrub. In the meantime we had excellent views of some of the endemic succulents like Aloe dichotoma, A. pillansii, A.ramossissima and halfmens (Pachypodium namaquanum),Euphorbias and the rugged mountains of the Richtersveld.
We proceeded past the mine town, Rosh Pinah, with strong winds blowing across the desert and towards Aus saw some Karoo Chats, Karoo Korhaan, Spikeheeled Lark and Yellowbellied Eremomela.
We arrived in Klein Aus Vista, an excellent lodge, and after unpacked the luggage, rush to the Barlow’s Lark site. On the way we had Sociable Weavers at its nest, Namaqua Sandgrouse and an unexpected Barlow’s Lark running across the road. I stopped and started search for the lark in the strong wind, but it seems that it just fade and after a big search we couldn’t flush it. Now on to the real site, but the sun was busy to say good bye before we could find the lark. We returned to the lodge in the hope that the wind will drop during the night to help in our search the next morning.
Klein Aus Vista is a great place to stay, friendly helpful personnel and the food delicious. Highly recommended to birders who would like to explore the adjacent area and if you are not liking the wind of Luderitz.
The next morning was blistering cold with ripe all over the sand and a nasty easterly wind blowing. The vehicle recorded 5*C in the sun but with the wind was it probably around 0*C. The cold and wind didn’t make it easier to find the Barlow’s Lark. We walked in a long line with frozen hands and ears to flush the larks, but when you flush it, it just dropped behind another bush. After about an hour of braving the cold wind, most of the people have seen it and they disappeared quietly to the comfort of the vehicle.
Before moving away from Aus we have to visit the Desert Horses and there were large numbers of them at the waterhole. Another lifer for some of my clients. Bird wise there were Tractrac Chat, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Rufouseared Warbler, Karoo Korhaan and a lonely Ludwig’s Bustard. Moving north the second vehicle had lovely views of a Barlow’s Lark walking slowly across the road right in front of them. What a luck!!
We took the D707 road that goes along the rim of the Namib and starting of with some Larklike Buntings, the Karoo Korhaans give way to Rüppell’s Korhaan. We could also see Greater Kestrels, Booted Eagle, Chat Flycatcher, really hundreds of Ludwig’s Bustards feeding on the short grass and about the same number of Rüppell’s Korhaans and Burchell’s Coursers. On the open desert plains you could really look anywhere and you have seen one of these 3 species. Those people looking for Burchell’s Coursers, that’s the place to be. Close to the Sesriem turn off we had good views of a Blackchested Snake Eagle.
It was after sunset that we arrived at Weltevrede Guest Farm and were welcomed by the friendly owners. Weltevrede has quiet a lot of birds around the lodge and hundreds of Namaqua Sandgrouses came to drink water behind the lodge. Pygmy Falcons lived in the Sociable Weaver nest on the rim of the lodge and the sandgrouses were harassed by 2 Lanner Falcons. Rosyfaced Lovebirds are also in the group of water drinkers together with Larklike Bunting and Whitethroated Canary. Other good birds were Marico Flycatchers, Redheaded Finches and Yellowbellied Eremomela. It was with great difficulty that I could get the people to have their breakfast.
Weltevrede is a good place to overnight or to stay a few days to explore the surrounding areas. According the owners you have free access to the adjacent areas to birds of which there are good numbers.
We left Weltevrede and made a necessary stop at Solitaire. Solitaire is one of those places you will always stop, either to buy some apple pie or a beer. From here we headed to Spreethoogte Pass and that place becomes for me a good stake out for Herero Chat. Along the road we added Shorttoed Rock Thrush (very common all over Namibia), Rufous-naped Lark and Desert Cisticola. We stopped at the bottom of the pass and call for the chat without any success. Birds that responded were Great Sparrow, Pririt Batis, more Short-toed Rock Thrush and Bradfield’s Sabota Lark. We returned to look at another place as I picked up a Herero Chat on the fence. We had brilliant views of at least 5 Herero Chats sitting on the fence and old telephone lines. All were very happy and we continued to Walvis Bay. It was midday and birds scarce. As we ascent on the western side of Kuiseb Pass we had Karoo Longbilled Lark next to the road and about 70 km from Walvis Bay we picked up our first Doublebanded Courser and soon afterwards 5 Gray’s Larks. The endemics were rolling in and we enjoyed the evening at the Esplanade Park in Walvis Bay.
Esplanade Park, runs by the local municipality, is a bit run down although the manager said that they will upgrade it. The normally high standard chalets have a lack of maintenance.
We started the next morning with the lagoon to avoid the fog inland. There were not many birds along the lagoon, except for the few thousand Greater Flamingoes. A single Bartailed Godwit flew past and a Caspian Tern tried to swallow a huge fish. We moved around towards the Salt Works with ticking Blacknecked Grebe, Swift, Common and Sandwich Terns. On the western side of the Salt Works we had lots of waders, not sure of some were overwintering, with good numbers of Chestnut-banded Plover, marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Common Greenshank and a lonely Sanderling. We drove down to Paaltjies where we spotted a White-chinned Petrel behind the waves and some Cape Gannets flew past.
With the sun shining we moved on to Rooibank to look for Dune Lark which we found within 10 minutes giving excellent views. In the same area we saw Black-headed Heron, Namaqua Dove, Common waxbill, Dusky Lark and a Booted Eagle soaring overhead. Some of the people would like to tackle Dune 7, but proceeded only half way before the wind and sand chased them off.
We took the road from Swakopmund to Windhoek for about 25 km before reaching ancient Welwitschia plants, some probably a 1000 or more years old. While strolling amongst the Welwitschias, I chased out 2 Karoo Eremomelas. We drove back to Swakopmund and the Mile 4 area where there were lots of Redcapped Larks and we found another group of Gray’s Lark which the people chased for some photos. The Mile 4 Salt Works only added Lesser Flamingo, Afr Black Oystercatcher and Whimbrel to our tour list.
Thursday and we were moving to the Omaruru area via Spitzkoppe. Before we can leave some of the group returned from an early morning drive and reported Rednecked Phalarope. Everything was left and we went to look for the birds. We found 7 of them still in the same area, 2 in partially breeding plumage, busy turning around and around and around and …
Now we were of via Henties Bay to Spitzkoppe, not finding many birds along the way. Closer to Spitzkoppe we found some Doublebanded Coursers and then our first Stark’s Larks, which have probably moved somewhere else since March. Birding around Spitzkoppe was more productive although some were birds already seen on the trip. We got our first Monteiro’s Hornbill and had great views of our first Augur Buzzard. Other birds around were Cape Bunting, Lanner Falcon chasing 2 Verreaux’s Eagles, Rosyfaced Lovebirds, Afr Pied Barbet and Yellowbilled Hornbill. No signs of Whitetailed Shrike!
The road to Omaruru only added Shrika to the list. We stayed in Omaruru at Omaruru River Guesthouse which has tall trees along the river in the back. We just unpacked and then headed for Erongo Wilderness Lodge where we should have dinner and the possibility of seeing Hartlaub’s Spurfowl at close range. Along the road to Erongo we saw several Whitetailed Shrikes and were greeted by a Rockrunner near the entrance. A walk around the koppies at the lodge didn’t deliver any Hartlaub’s, they not even respond to the call. We had a nice dinner and were spoiled by the local Porcupine coming to look for left-overs and a Small Spotted Genet.
We were out before sunrise to have another look for the spurfowl in the mountainous areas. Again the spurfowl wouldn’t respond but we could add another endemic, Carp’s ***. Birding the next morning on the road along the river wasn’t as good as in summer, but we saw Bradfield’s Swifts joining the sky with Alpine and Afr Palm Swifts. On the way to Aus we had soaring Whitebacked and Lappetfaced Vultures, Martial Eagle, our first Sth Pied Babbler, Afr Hawk Eagle and Tawny Eagle.
About 10 km north of Uis we had excellent views of some Benguella Longbilled Larks. We took the Sorris Sorris road and saw Booted Eagle soaring, more Gray’s Larks and Greybacked Sparrowlarks and on the northern side of the Ugab River more Benguella Longbilled Larks.
At Kamanjab we stayed at Kamanjab Rest Camp which has good facilities and excellent birds. Just outside the town we ticked Little Bee-eater, Malachite Kingfisher and Purple Roller. At the lodge we were awaited by some Monteiro’s Hornbills and White-crowned Shrike. A walk to the hill behind the lodge didn’t produced a Hartlaub’s Spurfowl at first, but when some we turned back after sunset, one of the group went to a rocky outcrop, sitting there and call the spurfowl. A male turned up without calling, stop once for a photo and then continue. We decided to be there before sunrise the next morning. We ascend the hill in almost darkness and took place, call and within a few moments a male jumped onto a rock a mere 3 meters away, giving excellent views of this elusive bird. At the lodge Rüppell’s Parrot visit the waterhole with Sth Pied Babbler and Crimsonbreasted Shrike.
We have to continue to Kunene River Lodge and I decided to take the road via Palmwag and Sesfontein. It is wonderful scenery but from Palmwag the road was in a terrible condition. A dry river bed produced a group of Barecheeked Babblers and along the road some more typical Namibia birds. Near the Hoanib River we got our first Kori Bustards and on top of Jouberts Pass a Longbilled Pipit. It became late and we had to move on to Kunene River Lodge where we arrived after sunset.
Kunene River Lodge stays a jewel and during the night Afr Scops Owl and Pearlspotted Owl were calling. Thousands of Redbilled Queleas roost in the reeds and you can hear them throughout the night. The next morning we were awoke by the beautiful call of the Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush. We ticked quiet a few new trip birds at the lodge like Giant Eagle Owl, Yellowbellied Greenbul, Golden Weaver, Spectacled Weaver, White-browed Coucal, Meve’s Starling and Wiretailed Swallows.
After breakfast we went to Swartbooisdrift to look for Grey Kestrel at a place which Pete of the lodge recommended. We didn’t find the kestrel, but saw Rüppell’s Parrot, Barecheeked Babbler and a pair of the subspecies of the Bennett’s Woodpecker performing. Back at the lodge Pete took us to look for Cinderella Waxbill. We waited an hour and half at the water for them to turn up. In the mean time Violet-eared Waxbill, Carp’s *** and some other birds turned up. With the Cinderella in the bag we returned to the lodge. Later in the afternoon we went back to Swartbooisdrift to look for the kestrel, but without success.
Monday morning we left Kunene River Lodge with most of the endemics in the bag. Within a kilo from the lodge we had some Violet Woodhoopoe and the Angolan subspecies of Rednecked Spurfowl. About halfway to Ruacana we stopped at a patch of reeds to look for Luapula Cisticola. We had excellent views of a group of 5 Violet Woodhoopoes; some Hartlaub’s Babblers and found the Luapula. Some Yellowbilled Oxpeckers were cleaning some donkeys of its ticks.
We were very pleased to get onto the tar road after thousands of kilos of gravel. We stopped at the Olushandja Dam along the road where we found an Osprey, Afr Fish Eagle, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Lesser Striped Swallow and even a Greyheaded Gull. We were still checking all the palm trees and pylons in the hope for a Grey Kestrel, which eventually turned up on a pylon about 15 km north west of Outapi. It gave good views with the scope and some of the locals were also very interested in what we were seeing.
In Ovamboland some of the pans have still water with good numbers of birds. Birds spotted were Chestnutbacked Sparrowlarks, Great White Egret, Afr Jacana, Southern Pochard, lots of Comb Ducks and Openbill Storks, Afr Purple Swamphen, while several Bateleurs were soaring overhead.
Our next destination was Sachsenheim Guest Farm just east of Etosha. It has excellent facilities and you are free to walk everywhere.
Next morning we were up before sunrise to go to Etosha for the day. We were held up by the local garden birds which include a group of Blackfaced Babblers. The babblers were feeding in and around the kraal and gave excellent views and photo opportunities. With the last of the Namibia endemics in the bag, we could go on a relax trip to Etosha.
It was a lovely day in Etosha. Where I had very little game at the waterholes in March, huge numbers of game have now gathered at the waterholes. Fischer’s Pan is almost dry and everything happens at the waterhole. We went towards Andoni Plain and at Fischer’s Pan we saw some Common Ringed, Kittlittz’ and Chestnutbanded Plovers, Zitting Cisticola and Pinkbilled Lark. A stop at Klein Okevi delivered a melanistic form Gabar Goshawk, Greybacked Sparrowlark, Goldenbreasted Bunting and Great Sparrow. A few Burchell’s Sandgrouses also landed at the waterhole. Along the road north we had Sth Pied Babbler, Tawny Eagle and Lappetfaced Vulture. Fawncoloured Lark became a common bird with several running in the road. We saw about all the game species along the road, even a lion near Andoni Plain waterhole.
In the afternoon we visited some of the other waterholes close to Namutoni where we had Double-banded Courser, Kori Bustard, Wattled Starling and even a Greyheaded Gull at Klein Namutoni waterhole.
On the way back to Sachsenheim we first had a juv Martial Eagle next to the road and then later on 2 adult Martial Eagles.
The next morning we moved to Waterberg Mountain Camp. Before we got to the tar road we saw another group of Blackfaced Babblers next to the road. Several Pearlspotted Owls were sitting on the telephone lines. We had stops at Lake Otjikoto and the Hoba meteorite before we tackled the gravel road to Waterberg. We didn’t find much spectacular along the road, but as we turned into Waterberg we had lots of birds alongside the road which included Greenwinged Pytilia, Blackfaced & Violeteared Waxbill and Puffback.
Waterberg Mountain Camp is about 30 km north of the park’s rest camp and situated on the northern side of the mountain although it is bordering the park. The chalets are situated along the edge of the mountain with some vista views to the north.
On a walk up the mountain we encountered several Rockrunner along the escarpment. In the evening Freckled Nightjar was calling and it was sighted with a spotlight. Next morning Hartlaub’s Spurfowl was calling very early. We took another stroll up the mountain finding Ashy and Carp’s ***, Cardinal Woodpecker, Monteiro’s and Damara Hornbills and Pririt Batis. The bird life towards the tented camp and campsite was more rewarding with Cape Penduline ***, a beautiful Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, Desert Barred Warbler, Bearded and Golden-tailed Woodpecker and Marico Sunbird.
Waterberg Mountain Camp is one of those more relaxed breakaways. All accommodation is self-catering but you have the whole farm to bird around, either on foot or in you vehicle if it is high clearance. It is highly recommended to birders and nature lovers.
The next day was a long shift from Waterberg to Marienthal and not many new birds were added. In Marienthal we stayed at River Chalets which has very comfortable accommodation. Late afternoon birding around the small holdings and Fish River delivered Lanner Falcon, Purple Heron, Levaillant’s Cisticola, Black-crowned Night Heron, Orange River White-eye, Spotted Thick-knee and some of the more common residents.
The drive down to Keetmanshoop the next morning gave Jackal Buzzard, a few Secretarybirds, Kori Bustard, a lonely White Stork, Chat Flycatcher and a Black-chested Snake Eagle. Towards Grünau we spotted Black Eagle, Karoo Longbilled Lark and the last of the Pygmy Falcons. Shortly after lunch we crossed the border back into SA.
We stayed in Springbok at Springbok Lodge which has excellent accommodation. Add herewith the lovely meals you get at the restaurant of Oom Jopie Kotze and you get real value for money. Arriving in Springbok we didn’t have much time before sunset, so we went towards the Goegap NR looking for Karoo Eremomelas. The reserve was already closed, so we proceeded with the Gamoep road along the boundary of the reserve. Here we found some displaying Karoo Larks and we had at a boulder-strewn hill excellent views of Cinnamonbreasted Warbler. This was a major tick for a lot of the people. With the sun setting we went back and picked up some Karoo Eremomelas to end the day.
The last day back to Cape Town started at dawn and near Bitterfontein we stopped to check some waterbirds. Suddenly we had a number of other birds like Cape Clapper Lark performing, Greybacked Cisticola, Grey *** calling and Southern Black Korhaan. Further down the road to Cape Town we had some Largebilled Larks, more Cape Clapper Larks, Booted Eagle and Cape Canary.
~ Japie Claassen
The trip started in Cape Town on a typical Cape winters day with rain. Our first shift was to Noordoewer and as the rain was coming down, not many birds were active. Along the road we spotted doves, ducks, Red Bishop, a Jackal Buzzard and some sparrows. No chance to look for Protea Canary in Ystervarkspoort as it was pouring but it will definitely help for the flowers of Namaqualand on the next trip. Into Namaqualand and the rain made some breaks but still overcast. We picked up Greater Kestrel, Pale chanting Goshawk and Capped Wheatear to mention a few.
A little dam with some water about 10 km north of Kamieskroon produced the first lifers for some of the people with Black Stork, Mountain Wheatear, Little Grebe, SA Shelduck and Redbilled Teal. Hope that the rain will stop didn’t realize and we had drizzle up to Noordoewer. We passed the border post without any hassles and stay at Orange River Lodge. Around the lodge we saw Brownthroated Martin, Orange River White-eye, and Blackchested Prinia without its black band and Whitethroated Canary. The lodge has good comfortable rooms for a one night stay.
The next morning we headed firstly for the Orange River below the lodge to give some people early lifers like Orange River White-eye, Namaqua Warbler, Pririt Batis, Common Scimitarbill and Dusky Sunbird. We took the road through the Namibia Richtersveld to Sendelingsdrift. The road is now tarred as far as Aussenkerr and the irrigation fields hosted Cattle Egret, Redeyed Dove, Palewinged Starling and Afr Hoopoe. The open barren ground hosted Redcapped larks and Tractrac Chat. The river and some reedbeds were home to Goliath Heron, Little Egret, Pied Kingfisher, Common Waxbill and Lesser Swamp Warbler.
Shortly after entering the Ai-Ais / Richtersveld Transfrontier Park we got our first Swallowtailed Bee-eaters, followed by an Afr Fish Eagle, Longbilled Crombec, Chestnutvented Titbabbler and Zitting Cisticola. In a track along an irrigation field on a lonely farm, 100 km west of Noordoewer, we spotted a few male and female Doublebanded Sandgrouses, really a surprise but I saw the field guides know about them here. Other birds in the area were Namaqua Dove, Blackheaded and Damara Canary, Cardinal Woodpecker, Black Stork and Karoo Longbilled Lark. Close to the pump station which pumps water to Rosh Pinah a Cape Francolin walked out off the riverine scrub. In the meantime we had excellent views of some of the endemic succulents like Aloe dichotoma, A. pillansii, A.ramossissima and halfmens (Pachypodium namaquanum),Euphorbias and the rugged mountains of the Richtersveld.
We proceeded past the mine town, Rosh Pinah, with strong winds blowing across the desert and towards Aus saw some Karoo Chats, Karoo Korhaan, Spikeheeled Lark and Yellowbellied Eremomela.
We arrived in Klein Aus Vista, an excellent lodge, and after unpacked the luggage, rush to the Barlow’s Lark site. On the way we had Sociable Weavers at its nest, Namaqua Sandgrouse and an unexpected Barlow’s Lark running across the road. I stopped and started search for the lark in the strong wind, but it seems that it just fade and after a big search we couldn’t flush it. Now on to the real site, but the sun was busy to say good bye before we could find the lark. We returned to the lodge in the hope that the wind will drop during the night to help in our search the next morning.
Klein Aus Vista is a great place to stay, friendly helpful personnel and the food delicious. Highly recommended to birders who would like to explore the adjacent area and if you are not liking the wind of Luderitz.
The next morning was blistering cold with ripe all over the sand and a nasty easterly wind blowing. The vehicle recorded 5*C in the sun but with the wind was it probably around 0*C. The cold and wind didn’t make it easier to find the Barlow’s Lark. We walked in a long line with frozen hands and ears to flush the larks, but when you flush it, it just dropped behind another bush. After about an hour of braving the cold wind, most of the people have seen it and they disappeared quietly to the comfort of the vehicle.
Before moving away from Aus we have to visit the Desert Horses and there were large numbers of them at the waterhole. Another lifer for some of my clients. Bird wise there were Tractrac Chat, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Rufouseared Warbler, Karoo Korhaan and a lonely Ludwig’s Bustard. Moving north the second vehicle had lovely views of a Barlow’s Lark walking slowly across the road right in front of them. What a luck!!
We took the D707 road that goes along the rim of the Namib and starting of with some Larklike Buntings, the Karoo Korhaans give way to Rüppell’s Korhaan. We could also see Greater Kestrels, Booted Eagle, Chat Flycatcher, really hundreds of Ludwig’s Bustards feeding on the short grass and about the same number of Rüppell’s Korhaans and Burchell’s Coursers. On the open desert plains you could really look anywhere and you have seen one of these 3 species. Those people looking for Burchell’s Coursers, that’s the place to be. Close to the Sesriem turn off we had good views of a Blackchested Snake Eagle.
It was after sunset that we arrived at Weltevrede Guest Farm and were welcomed by the friendly owners. Weltevrede has quiet a lot of birds around the lodge and hundreds of Namaqua Sandgrouses came to drink water behind the lodge. Pygmy Falcons lived in the Sociable Weaver nest on the rim of the lodge and the sandgrouses were harassed by 2 Lanner Falcons. Rosyfaced Lovebirds are also in the group of water drinkers together with Larklike Bunting and Whitethroated Canary. Other good birds were Marico Flycatchers, Redheaded Finches and Yellowbellied Eremomela. It was with great difficulty that I could get the people to have their breakfast.
Weltevrede is a good place to overnight or to stay a few days to explore the surrounding areas. According the owners you have free access to the adjacent areas to birds of which there are good numbers.
We left Weltevrede and made a necessary stop at Solitaire. Solitaire is one of those places you will always stop, either to buy some apple pie or a beer. From here we headed to Spreethoogte Pass and that place becomes for me a good stake out for Herero Chat. Along the road we added Shorttoed Rock Thrush (very common all over Namibia), Rufous-naped Lark and Desert Cisticola. We stopped at the bottom of the pass and call for the chat without any success. Birds that responded were Great Sparrow, Pririt Batis, more Short-toed Rock Thrush and Bradfield’s Sabota Lark. We returned to look at another place as I picked up a Herero Chat on the fence. We had brilliant views of at least 5 Herero Chats sitting on the fence and old telephone lines. All were very happy and we continued to Walvis Bay. It was midday and birds scarce. As we ascent on the western side of Kuiseb Pass we had Karoo Longbilled Lark next to the road and about 70 km from Walvis Bay we picked up our first Doublebanded Courser and soon afterwards 5 Gray’s Larks. The endemics were rolling in and we enjoyed the evening at the Esplanade Park in Walvis Bay.
Esplanade Park, runs by the local municipality, is a bit run down although the manager said that they will upgrade it. The normally high standard chalets have a lack of maintenance.
We started the next morning with the lagoon to avoid the fog inland. There were not many birds along the lagoon, except for the few thousand Greater Flamingoes. A single Bartailed Godwit flew past and a Caspian Tern tried to swallow a huge fish. We moved around towards the Salt Works with ticking Blacknecked Grebe, Swift, Common and Sandwich Terns. On the western side of the Salt Works we had lots of waders, not sure of some were overwintering, with good numbers of Chestnut-banded Plover, marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Common Greenshank and a lonely Sanderling. We drove down to Paaltjies where we spotted a White-chinned Petrel behind the waves and some Cape Gannets flew past.
With the sun shining we moved on to Rooibank to look for Dune Lark which we found within 10 minutes giving excellent views. In the same area we saw Black-headed Heron, Namaqua Dove, Common waxbill, Dusky Lark and a Booted Eagle soaring overhead. Some of the people would like to tackle Dune 7, but proceeded only half way before the wind and sand chased them off.
We took the road from Swakopmund to Windhoek for about 25 km before reaching ancient Welwitschia plants, some probably a 1000 or more years old. While strolling amongst the Welwitschias, I chased out 2 Karoo Eremomelas. We drove back to Swakopmund and the Mile 4 area where there were lots of Redcapped Larks and we found another group of Gray’s Lark which the people chased for some photos. The Mile 4 Salt Works only added Lesser Flamingo, Afr Black Oystercatcher and Whimbrel to our tour list.
Thursday and we were moving to the Omaruru area via Spitzkoppe. Before we can leave some of the group returned from an early morning drive and reported Rednecked Phalarope. Everything was left and we went to look for the birds. We found 7 of them still in the same area, 2 in partially breeding plumage, busy turning around and around and around and …
Now we were of via Henties Bay to Spitzkoppe, not finding many birds along the way. Closer to Spitzkoppe we found some Doublebanded Coursers and then our first Stark’s Larks, which have probably moved somewhere else since March. Birding around Spitzkoppe was more productive although some were birds already seen on the trip. We got our first Monteiro’s Hornbill and had great views of our first Augur Buzzard. Other birds around were Cape Bunting, Lanner Falcon chasing 2 Verreaux’s Eagles, Rosyfaced Lovebirds, Afr Pied Barbet and Yellowbilled Hornbill. No signs of Whitetailed Shrike!
The road to Omaruru only added Shrika to the list. We stayed in Omaruru at Omaruru River Guesthouse which has tall trees along the river in the back. We just unpacked and then headed for Erongo Wilderness Lodge where we should have dinner and the possibility of seeing Hartlaub’s Spurfowl at close range. Along the road to Erongo we saw several Whitetailed Shrikes and were greeted by a Rockrunner near the entrance. A walk around the koppies at the lodge didn’t deliver any Hartlaub’s, they not even respond to the call. We had a nice dinner and were spoiled by the local Porcupine coming to look for left-overs and a Small Spotted Genet.
We were out before sunrise to have another look for the spurfowl in the mountainous areas. Again the spurfowl wouldn’t respond but we could add another endemic, Carp’s ***. Birding the next morning on the road along the river wasn’t as good as in summer, but we saw Bradfield’s Swifts joining the sky with Alpine and Afr Palm Swifts. On the way to Aus we had soaring Whitebacked and Lappetfaced Vultures, Martial Eagle, our first Sth Pied Babbler, Afr Hawk Eagle and Tawny Eagle.
About 10 km north of Uis we had excellent views of some Benguella Longbilled Larks. We took the Sorris Sorris road and saw Booted Eagle soaring, more Gray’s Larks and Greybacked Sparrowlarks and on the northern side of the Ugab River more Benguella Longbilled Larks.
At Kamanjab we stayed at Kamanjab Rest Camp which has good facilities and excellent birds. Just outside the town we ticked Little Bee-eater, Malachite Kingfisher and Purple Roller. At the lodge we were awaited by some Monteiro’s Hornbills and White-crowned Shrike. A walk to the hill behind the lodge didn’t produced a Hartlaub’s Spurfowl at first, but when some we turned back after sunset, one of the group went to a rocky outcrop, sitting there and call the spurfowl. A male turned up without calling, stop once for a photo and then continue. We decided to be there before sunrise the next morning. We ascend the hill in almost darkness and took place, call and within a few moments a male jumped onto a rock a mere 3 meters away, giving excellent views of this elusive bird. At the lodge Rüppell’s Parrot visit the waterhole with Sth Pied Babbler and Crimsonbreasted Shrike.
We have to continue to Kunene River Lodge and I decided to take the road via Palmwag and Sesfontein. It is wonderful scenery but from Palmwag the road was in a terrible condition. A dry river bed produced a group of Barecheeked Babblers and along the road some more typical Namibia birds. Near the Hoanib River we got our first Kori Bustards and on top of Jouberts Pass a Longbilled Pipit. It became late and we had to move on to Kunene River Lodge where we arrived after sunset.
Kunene River Lodge stays a jewel and during the night Afr Scops Owl and Pearlspotted Owl were calling. Thousands of Redbilled Queleas roost in the reeds and you can hear them throughout the night. The next morning we were awoke by the beautiful call of the Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush. We ticked quiet a few new trip birds at the lodge like Giant Eagle Owl, Yellowbellied Greenbul, Golden Weaver, Spectacled Weaver, White-browed Coucal, Meve’s Starling and Wiretailed Swallows.
After breakfast we went to Swartbooisdrift to look for Grey Kestrel at a place which Pete of the lodge recommended. We didn’t find the kestrel, but saw Rüppell’s Parrot, Barecheeked Babbler and a pair of the subspecies of the Bennett’s Woodpecker performing. Back at the lodge Pete took us to look for Cinderella Waxbill. We waited an hour and half at the water for them to turn up. In the mean time Violet-eared Waxbill, Carp’s *** and some other birds turned up. With the Cinderella in the bag we returned to the lodge. Later in the afternoon we went back to Swartbooisdrift to look for the kestrel, but without success.
Monday morning we left Kunene River Lodge with most of the endemics in the bag. Within a kilo from the lodge we had some Violet Woodhoopoe and the Angolan subspecies of Rednecked Spurfowl. About halfway to Ruacana we stopped at a patch of reeds to look for Luapula Cisticola. We had excellent views of a group of 5 Violet Woodhoopoes; some Hartlaub’s Babblers and found the Luapula. Some Yellowbilled Oxpeckers were cleaning some donkeys of its ticks.
We were very pleased to get onto the tar road after thousands of kilos of gravel. We stopped at the Olushandja Dam along the road where we found an Osprey, Afr Fish Eagle, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Lesser Striped Swallow and even a Greyheaded Gull. We were still checking all the palm trees and pylons in the hope for a Grey Kestrel, which eventually turned up on a pylon about 15 km north west of Outapi. It gave good views with the scope and some of the locals were also very interested in what we were seeing.
In Ovamboland some of the pans have still water with good numbers of birds. Birds spotted were Chestnutbacked Sparrowlarks, Great White Egret, Afr Jacana, Southern Pochard, lots of Comb Ducks and Openbill Storks, Afr Purple Swamphen, while several Bateleurs were soaring overhead.
Our next destination was Sachsenheim Guest Farm just east of Etosha. It has excellent facilities and you are free to walk everywhere.
Next morning we were up before sunrise to go to Etosha for the day. We were held up by the local garden birds which include a group of Blackfaced Babblers. The babblers were feeding in and around the kraal and gave excellent views and photo opportunities. With the last of the Namibia endemics in the bag, we could go on a relax trip to Etosha.
It was a lovely day in Etosha. Where I had very little game at the waterholes in March, huge numbers of game have now gathered at the waterholes. Fischer’s Pan is almost dry and everything happens at the waterhole. We went towards Andoni Plain and at Fischer’s Pan we saw some Common Ringed, Kittlittz’ and Chestnutbanded Plovers, Zitting Cisticola and Pinkbilled Lark. A stop at Klein Okevi delivered a melanistic form Gabar Goshawk, Greybacked Sparrowlark, Goldenbreasted Bunting and Great Sparrow. A few Burchell’s Sandgrouses also landed at the waterhole. Along the road north we had Sth Pied Babbler, Tawny Eagle and Lappetfaced Vulture. Fawncoloured Lark became a common bird with several running in the road. We saw about all the game species along the road, even a lion near Andoni Plain waterhole.
In the afternoon we visited some of the other waterholes close to Namutoni where we had Double-banded Courser, Kori Bustard, Wattled Starling and even a Greyheaded Gull at Klein Namutoni waterhole.
On the way back to Sachsenheim we first had a juv Martial Eagle next to the road and then later on 2 adult Martial Eagles.
The next morning we moved to Waterberg Mountain Camp. Before we got to the tar road we saw another group of Blackfaced Babblers next to the road. Several Pearlspotted Owls were sitting on the telephone lines. We had stops at Lake Otjikoto and the Hoba meteorite before we tackled the gravel road to Waterberg. We didn’t find much spectacular along the road, but as we turned into Waterberg we had lots of birds alongside the road which included Greenwinged Pytilia, Blackfaced & Violeteared Waxbill and Puffback.
Waterberg Mountain Camp is about 30 km north of the park’s rest camp and situated on the northern side of the mountain although it is bordering the park. The chalets are situated along the edge of the mountain with some vista views to the north.
On a walk up the mountain we encountered several Rockrunner along the escarpment. In the evening Freckled Nightjar was calling and it was sighted with a spotlight. Next morning Hartlaub’s Spurfowl was calling very early. We took another stroll up the mountain finding Ashy and Carp’s ***, Cardinal Woodpecker, Monteiro’s and Damara Hornbills and Pririt Batis. The bird life towards the tented camp and campsite was more rewarding with Cape Penduline ***, a beautiful Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, Desert Barred Warbler, Bearded and Golden-tailed Woodpecker and Marico Sunbird.
Waterberg Mountain Camp is one of those more relaxed breakaways. All accommodation is self-catering but you have the whole farm to bird around, either on foot or in you vehicle if it is high clearance. It is highly recommended to birders and nature lovers.
The next day was a long shift from Waterberg to Marienthal and not many new birds were added. In Marienthal we stayed at River Chalets which has very comfortable accommodation. Late afternoon birding around the small holdings and Fish River delivered Lanner Falcon, Purple Heron, Levaillant’s Cisticola, Black-crowned Night Heron, Orange River White-eye, Spotted Thick-knee and some of the more common residents.
The drive down to Keetmanshoop the next morning gave Jackal Buzzard, a few Secretarybirds, Kori Bustard, a lonely White Stork, Chat Flycatcher and a Black-chested Snake Eagle. Towards Grünau we spotted Black Eagle, Karoo Longbilled Lark and the last of the Pygmy Falcons. Shortly after lunch we crossed the border back into SA.
We stayed in Springbok at Springbok Lodge which has excellent accommodation. Add herewith the lovely meals you get at the restaurant of Oom Jopie Kotze and you get real value for money. Arriving in Springbok we didn’t have much time before sunset, so we went towards the Goegap NR looking for Karoo Eremomelas. The reserve was already closed, so we proceeded with the Gamoep road along the boundary of the reserve. Here we found some displaying Karoo Larks and we had at a boulder-strewn hill excellent views of Cinnamonbreasted Warbler. This was a major tick for a lot of the people. With the sun setting we went back and picked up some Karoo Eremomelas to end the day.
The last day back to Cape Town started at dawn and near Bitterfontein we stopped to check some waterbirds. Suddenly we had a number of other birds like Cape Clapper Lark performing, Greybacked Cisticola, Grey *** calling and Southern Black Korhaan. Further down the road to Cape Town we had some Largebilled Larks, more Cape Clapper Larks, Booted Eagle and Cape Canary.
~ Japie Claassen
