Northern Cape & Kalahari 2010
I recently returned from a trip with clients including 3 overseas clients through the Northern Cape and Kalahari. It was a most successful trip despite the severe dry conditions in that area. No early summer rains have been fallen yet. Nevertheless we managed to record 221 bird species, which includes almost all the wanted species, and 34 mammal species.
We started off in Cape Town in cool rainy weather and as we proceeded into the Karoo we got some good birds especially for the foreigners like Blue Crane, Blackheaded Canary, Alpine Swift and Southern Red Bishop. We got the first Karoo Chats, indicating that we are now in the dry areas. Matjiesfontein produced the first Karoo Thrush and Steppe Buzzard. At the road works along the way we spotted Karoo Longbilled, Spikeheeled and Redcapped Lark, Yellow Canary and Cape Bunting.
My clients stayed at Beaufort Manor where the gardens teem with birds like Red-eyed Dove, Karoo Thrush and European Bee-eater. The lodge has rooms and self catering chalets in the garden. Contact www.beaufortmanor.co.za; e-mail: bmanor@internext.co.za; tel 023 4152175 ; fax 023 4142178.
We left Beaufort West early the next morning en route to Witsand Nature Reserve in the eastern Kalahari. Towards Victoria West we ticked off White-throated Canary, Desert Cisticola, Jackal Buzzard and Rufous-eared Warbler. We stopped at Victoria West Dam to have breakfast while an icy southeaster was blowing. The dam is only one of the few open waters still surviving in the Karoo and hosted a large numbers of species and birds. We could mark Black Eagle soaring overhead (not swimming), Black-throated Canary, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Wattled Starling, Red-billed Queleas, the most southernly South African Cliff Swallow colony and water birds like Black-necked Grebe, Greater Flamingoes, Great Crested Grebe, Maccoa Duck, Common Moorhen and several other duck species.
Leaving Victoria West we had Chat Flycatcher, followed by Secretarybird, Ludwig’s Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, Grey-backed Sparrowlark and Namaqua Sandgrouse. About 50 km before Prieska we found our first Sociable Weaver nests but no Pygmy Falcons. A stop on the bridge over the Orange River we saw Booted Eagle, African Darter, Marsh Warbler, which is a far west record of the birds, and Orange River White-eye. A stop on the road to Niekerkshoop where the Bradfield’s Swift colony use to be, there were no signs of the birds. It was in the middle of the day and maybe they were feeding elsewhere. In the gorge we had good views of Dusky Sunbird, Greybacked Cisticola, Layard’s Titbabbler and Pririt Batis.
North of Niekerkshoop towards the tar road we found our first Cape Glossy Starling and a number of Namaqua Doves. Crossing the Langberge (Long Mountains) we picked up our first Pygmy Falcon. As we neared Witsand Nature Reserve we had more Pygmy Falcons, a Cardinal Woodpecker peeking out of her nesting hole, Brubru and Black-chested Prinia. During the night Pearl-spotted Owl was calling.
Witsand Nature Reserve is lovely and if you haven't visited it yet, you should really make a plan to go there. The facilities are excellent and neat, the chalets situated apart amongst the huge camelthorn trees and although very dry during our visit, birding was good. Contact www.witsandkalahari.co.za; e-mail: witsandkalahari@telkomsa.net; tel / fax +27 53 3131061/2; cell +27 83 234 7573. The only negative was that very few birds visited the waterhole at the hide and no sandgrouses turned up. This was - according the Park’s personnel - due to the drought.
Inside the reserve we saw inter alia Dusky Sunbird, Diderick Cuckoo, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Green-winged Pytilia, Red-headed Finch, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Violet-eared Waxbill, Gabar Goshawk, Fawn-coloured Lark, Red-crested Korhaan, Marico Sunbird and Greater Honeyguide. Every chalet has its own bird bath which makes nice birding during the hot time of the day. Common Duikers are daily visitors to the chalets and Small Spotted Genets visit the braais every evening to look for any leftovers. Witsand is great!
Day 4 and we continued to Upington. A quick stop in the kloof passing through the Langberge produced Lesser Honeyguide, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Pririt Batis and Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters. East of Groblershoop we had a beautiful juvenile Martial Eagle sitting on a pylon. We drove via a detour to Boegoeberg Dam in the Orange River. Along this gravel road we had Afr Palm Swift, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Desert Cisticola and then the big bonus, a large flock of Black-eared Sparrowlarks. That was the one bird I had very little hope to see as I found none in the previous months in the Bushmanland and Northern Cape. It was a new bird to most of my clients and they enjoyed it to search for the birds in the shade of the bushes.
Boegoeberg Dam is a beautiful spot along the river and the holiday resort hosts a good variety of birds. Contact www.stayinsa.co.za/boegoebergholidayresort. ;e-mail: boegoewgv@lantic.net; tel 083 2574730. Birds around here are Orange River White-eye, Afr Reed-warbler, Little Egret, Namaqua Warbler, Reed Cormorant, Goliath Heron and Afr Pied Wagtail. Away from the river you can find Short-toed Rock Thrush, Bradfield’s Sabota Lark, Karoo Chat and Rufous-eared Warbler.
We stayed at Kalahari Monate Lodge outside Upington. That is a very good lodge close to Upington but in the wild. Staying here, you have free access to the adjacent Spitskop NR. Contact www.spitskopmonate.co.za; e-mail: teuns@intekom.co.za; tel / fax +27 54 3321336; Cell: +27 82 4458324. Northern Black Korhaan, Spotted Thick-knee and Rufous-cheeked Nightjar are garden birds. We had a great sundowner at Spitskop.
The next morning we were early out to the reserve and spotted Larklike Bunting, Fawn-coloured and Stark’s Lark and Scaly-feathered Finch. We were waiting at the waterhole but were too early for the sandgrouses. Nevertheless, we saw Pink-billed & Fawn-coloured Lark, Grey-backed Sparrowlark and Kalahari Scrub-Robin.
We proceeded from Upington to Twee Rivieren with no new birds for the trip along the road. Near Askham we got our first Lilac-breasted Roller and White-backed Vulture, while a bit further a Lappet-faced Vulture was soaring overhead. Between the motel and the park we added Tawny Eagle, Pygmy Falcon and Sth Yellowbilled Hornbill.
It was hot when we arrived in Twee Rivieren and after settled in, we headed up in the Auob River. Let I just warn you: The roads inside the park are BAD! BAD! BAD! I am familiar with gravel roads and travel every year thousands of kilo’s on them, but to shake for 180 km is no joke. I don’t know what Sanparks will do about the roads, no easy solution. Chat Flycatchers, Spikeheeled Larks and Northern Black Korhaans were common along the road. We found a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl close to Houmoed windmill and tens of Yellow Canaries came to drink water. Back in the camp we were treated by a Cardinal Woodpecker and Pearlspotted Owl.
Day 6 and we moved from Twee Rivieren to Nossob camp for 3 nights. Interesting birds along the way were Rufous-eared Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Fawn-coloured Lark, Ashy ***, couple of Spotted & Verreaux’s Eagle Owls, Tawny Eagle, lots of Namaqua Sandgrouses coming to drink, Grey-backed Sparrowlark, Martial Eagle, Kori Bustard, Greater Kestrel and 2 Black-headed Herons sitting on the water tank at Moravet windmill. We had good numbers of springbuck, gemsbuck, blue wildebeest and a sleeping lioness.
The next day we headed north of Nossob. The area was very dry and seedeaters were scarce. We saw 2 Red-necked Falcons, a whole congregation of Crowned Lapwings, our first Lilac-breasted Roller, Bateleur; a couple of Double-banded Courser, Burchell’s Starling and close to Lanklaas windmills a group of 10 Burchell’s Coursers, a highlight. As we got back at Cubitje Quap waterhole, 9 Secretarybirds were waiting for us with a couple Bateleurs.
A night drive delivered several Spotted Eagle Owls with some lions, jackal and wild cat. At the hide turned up a Barn Owl and a Brown Hyena passed through late night.
The next morning we went back to Marie se Gat waterhole to check up on the lions of the previous night. En route we met up with 2 cheetahs and at the windmill the lions caught a gemsbuck. Birds around includes a Tawny Eagle, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Marico Flycatchers. Driving up towards Kwang we spotted 2 Rednecked Falcons, Yellowbellied Eremomela, a pair of Burchell’s Sandgrouse dropped quickly at the waterhole for a drink, Lanner Falcons and Rufous-eared Warbler. At Kwang we had more lions close to the road and on return we had no less than 12 Secretarybirds at Cubitje Quap waterhole plus some Bateleur and White-backed Vulture.
Returning the afternoon to Marie se Gat waterhole we found our first Shaft-tailed Whydah, Violet-eared Waxbill, a Gabar Goshawk harassing the sparrows, Greybacked Sparrowlark and Stark’s Lark.
The next day was a long drive from Nossob to Augrabies Falls and new birds between Nossob and Twee Rivieren were Lappet-faced Vulture, Fawncoloured Lark, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Common Scimitarbill and Ashy ***. The facilities inside the park are very good and personnel very professional. Contactwww.sanparks.org/kgalagadi.
At Augrabies the water is low, but a good number of birds can be seen. Small flies are a problem and tried its best to get into any place. A walk in the camp on Day 10 produced Orange River White-eye, Burchell’s Coucal, Crested Barbet, Dusky Sunbird, Namaqua Warbler, Lesser Honeyguide, Little Bittern, Brubru to name just a few. A visit to Oranjekom later gave Pygmy Falcon, Verreaux’s Eagles, Karoo Longbilled Lark and Ludwig’s Bustard. Late afternoon a Peregrine Falcon was hunting out in the open areas while Hamerkops were feeding in the small streams coming from the nearby farms. We also found a pair of Golden-tailed Woodpeckers close to the office. The facilities in Augrabies are also very good although you should be wary for the baboons and monkeys which become a nuisance around the chalets and campsite. Contact www.sanparks.org/augrabies.
The next day we moved on to Pofadder and we picked up several Chat Flycatchers, while between 35 and 15 km from Pofadder the area teemed with LBJ’s like Stark’s Lark, Larklike Bunting, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Rufous-eared Warbler, Karoo Korhaan, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Black-eared and Grey-backed Sparrowlarks. A real feast!
In Pofadder we stayed at the Kleinplasie Chalets which is comfortable. Contact www.pofadderhotel.co.za; e-mail: info@pofadderhotel.co.za; tel 054 9330063 ; fax 054 9330455. After lunch we took the gravel road via Namies to the Red Lark spot. First stop was at the Sclater’s Lark waterhole, but nothing came to drink despite the heat. Wrong time!! We moved on and pick up Large-billed & Red-capped Lark, Yellow & Black-throated Canary and Karoo Chat. It was quiet hot when we arrived at the Koa Dunes and had some quick sightings of the Red Larks. They actually wouldn’t response to the call. We returned to Pofadder in a strong, cold wind which blew away any birds including Sclater’s Lark.
The next morning when we got up to look for the Sclater’s it was one of that miserable days – overcast with some drizzle now and then, cold, windy – and my hope for the Sclater’s was very low. Nevertheless, we went to the waterhole and waited. Some Yellow and White-throated Canaries came to drink and after an hour and half we were lucky as 6 Sclater’s Lark, mostly young birds, turned up. What a relief for myself and the clients!
The only other thing was now the long road back to Cape Town. As we nearer Springbok, the rain became stronger and we drove in the rain up to Vanrhynsdorp. After all a very successful trip with most of the western endemics.
~ Japie Claassen
We started off in Cape Town in cool rainy weather and as we proceeded into the Karoo we got some good birds especially for the foreigners like Blue Crane, Blackheaded Canary, Alpine Swift and Southern Red Bishop. We got the first Karoo Chats, indicating that we are now in the dry areas. Matjiesfontein produced the first Karoo Thrush and Steppe Buzzard. At the road works along the way we spotted Karoo Longbilled, Spikeheeled and Redcapped Lark, Yellow Canary and Cape Bunting.
My clients stayed at Beaufort Manor where the gardens teem with birds like Red-eyed Dove, Karoo Thrush and European Bee-eater. The lodge has rooms and self catering chalets in the garden. Contact www.beaufortmanor.co.za; e-mail: bmanor@internext.co.za; tel 023 4152175 ; fax 023 4142178.
We left Beaufort West early the next morning en route to Witsand Nature Reserve in the eastern Kalahari. Towards Victoria West we ticked off White-throated Canary, Desert Cisticola, Jackal Buzzard and Rufous-eared Warbler. We stopped at Victoria West Dam to have breakfast while an icy southeaster was blowing. The dam is only one of the few open waters still surviving in the Karoo and hosted a large numbers of species and birds. We could mark Black Eagle soaring overhead (not swimming), Black-throated Canary, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Wattled Starling, Red-billed Queleas, the most southernly South African Cliff Swallow colony and water birds like Black-necked Grebe, Greater Flamingoes, Great Crested Grebe, Maccoa Duck, Common Moorhen and several other duck species.
Leaving Victoria West we had Chat Flycatcher, followed by Secretarybird, Ludwig’s Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, Grey-backed Sparrowlark and Namaqua Sandgrouse. About 50 km before Prieska we found our first Sociable Weaver nests but no Pygmy Falcons. A stop on the bridge over the Orange River we saw Booted Eagle, African Darter, Marsh Warbler, which is a far west record of the birds, and Orange River White-eye. A stop on the road to Niekerkshoop where the Bradfield’s Swift colony use to be, there were no signs of the birds. It was in the middle of the day and maybe they were feeding elsewhere. In the gorge we had good views of Dusky Sunbird, Greybacked Cisticola, Layard’s Titbabbler and Pririt Batis.
North of Niekerkshoop towards the tar road we found our first Cape Glossy Starling and a number of Namaqua Doves. Crossing the Langberge (Long Mountains) we picked up our first Pygmy Falcon. As we neared Witsand Nature Reserve we had more Pygmy Falcons, a Cardinal Woodpecker peeking out of her nesting hole, Brubru and Black-chested Prinia. During the night Pearl-spotted Owl was calling.
Witsand Nature Reserve is lovely and if you haven't visited it yet, you should really make a plan to go there. The facilities are excellent and neat, the chalets situated apart amongst the huge camelthorn trees and although very dry during our visit, birding was good. Contact www.witsandkalahari.co.za; e-mail: witsandkalahari@telkomsa.net; tel / fax +27 53 3131061/2; cell +27 83 234 7573. The only negative was that very few birds visited the waterhole at the hide and no sandgrouses turned up. This was - according the Park’s personnel - due to the drought.
Inside the reserve we saw inter alia Dusky Sunbird, Diderick Cuckoo, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Green-winged Pytilia, Red-headed Finch, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Violet-eared Waxbill, Gabar Goshawk, Fawn-coloured Lark, Red-crested Korhaan, Marico Sunbird and Greater Honeyguide. Every chalet has its own bird bath which makes nice birding during the hot time of the day. Common Duikers are daily visitors to the chalets and Small Spotted Genets visit the braais every evening to look for any leftovers. Witsand is great!
Day 4 and we continued to Upington. A quick stop in the kloof passing through the Langberge produced Lesser Honeyguide, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Pririt Batis and Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters. East of Groblershoop we had a beautiful juvenile Martial Eagle sitting on a pylon. We drove via a detour to Boegoeberg Dam in the Orange River. Along this gravel road we had Afr Palm Swift, Namaqua Sandgrouse, Desert Cisticola and then the big bonus, a large flock of Black-eared Sparrowlarks. That was the one bird I had very little hope to see as I found none in the previous months in the Bushmanland and Northern Cape. It was a new bird to most of my clients and they enjoyed it to search for the birds in the shade of the bushes.
Boegoeberg Dam is a beautiful spot along the river and the holiday resort hosts a good variety of birds. Contact www.stayinsa.co.za/boegoebergholidayresort. ;e-mail: boegoewgv@lantic.net; tel 083 2574730. Birds around here are Orange River White-eye, Afr Reed-warbler, Little Egret, Namaqua Warbler, Reed Cormorant, Goliath Heron and Afr Pied Wagtail. Away from the river you can find Short-toed Rock Thrush, Bradfield’s Sabota Lark, Karoo Chat and Rufous-eared Warbler.
We stayed at Kalahari Monate Lodge outside Upington. That is a very good lodge close to Upington but in the wild. Staying here, you have free access to the adjacent Spitskop NR. Contact www.spitskopmonate.co.za; e-mail: teuns@intekom.co.za; tel / fax +27 54 3321336; Cell: +27 82 4458324. Northern Black Korhaan, Spotted Thick-knee and Rufous-cheeked Nightjar are garden birds. We had a great sundowner at Spitskop.
The next morning we were early out to the reserve and spotted Larklike Bunting, Fawn-coloured and Stark’s Lark and Scaly-feathered Finch. We were waiting at the waterhole but were too early for the sandgrouses. Nevertheless, we saw Pink-billed & Fawn-coloured Lark, Grey-backed Sparrowlark and Kalahari Scrub-Robin.
We proceeded from Upington to Twee Rivieren with no new birds for the trip along the road. Near Askham we got our first Lilac-breasted Roller and White-backed Vulture, while a bit further a Lappet-faced Vulture was soaring overhead. Between the motel and the park we added Tawny Eagle, Pygmy Falcon and Sth Yellowbilled Hornbill.
It was hot when we arrived in Twee Rivieren and after settled in, we headed up in the Auob River. Let I just warn you: The roads inside the park are BAD! BAD! BAD! I am familiar with gravel roads and travel every year thousands of kilo’s on them, but to shake for 180 km is no joke. I don’t know what Sanparks will do about the roads, no easy solution. Chat Flycatchers, Spikeheeled Larks and Northern Black Korhaans were common along the road. We found a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl close to Houmoed windmill and tens of Yellow Canaries came to drink water. Back in the camp we were treated by a Cardinal Woodpecker and Pearlspotted Owl.
Day 6 and we moved from Twee Rivieren to Nossob camp for 3 nights. Interesting birds along the way were Rufous-eared Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Fawn-coloured Lark, Ashy ***, couple of Spotted & Verreaux’s Eagle Owls, Tawny Eagle, lots of Namaqua Sandgrouses coming to drink, Grey-backed Sparrowlark, Martial Eagle, Kori Bustard, Greater Kestrel and 2 Black-headed Herons sitting on the water tank at Moravet windmill. We had good numbers of springbuck, gemsbuck, blue wildebeest and a sleeping lioness.
The next day we headed north of Nossob. The area was very dry and seedeaters were scarce. We saw 2 Red-necked Falcons, a whole congregation of Crowned Lapwings, our first Lilac-breasted Roller, Bateleur; a couple of Double-banded Courser, Burchell’s Starling and close to Lanklaas windmills a group of 10 Burchell’s Coursers, a highlight. As we got back at Cubitje Quap waterhole, 9 Secretarybirds were waiting for us with a couple Bateleurs.
A night drive delivered several Spotted Eagle Owls with some lions, jackal and wild cat. At the hide turned up a Barn Owl and a Brown Hyena passed through late night.
The next morning we went back to Marie se Gat waterhole to check up on the lions of the previous night. En route we met up with 2 cheetahs and at the windmill the lions caught a gemsbuck. Birds around includes a Tawny Eagle, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Marico Flycatchers. Driving up towards Kwang we spotted 2 Rednecked Falcons, Yellowbellied Eremomela, a pair of Burchell’s Sandgrouse dropped quickly at the waterhole for a drink, Lanner Falcons and Rufous-eared Warbler. At Kwang we had more lions close to the road and on return we had no less than 12 Secretarybirds at Cubitje Quap waterhole plus some Bateleur and White-backed Vulture.
Returning the afternoon to Marie se Gat waterhole we found our first Shaft-tailed Whydah, Violet-eared Waxbill, a Gabar Goshawk harassing the sparrows, Greybacked Sparrowlark and Stark’s Lark.
The next day was a long drive from Nossob to Augrabies Falls and new birds between Nossob and Twee Rivieren were Lappet-faced Vulture, Fawncoloured Lark, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Common Scimitarbill and Ashy ***. The facilities inside the park are very good and personnel very professional. Contactwww.sanparks.org/kgalagadi.
At Augrabies the water is low, but a good number of birds can be seen. Small flies are a problem and tried its best to get into any place. A walk in the camp on Day 10 produced Orange River White-eye, Burchell’s Coucal, Crested Barbet, Dusky Sunbird, Namaqua Warbler, Lesser Honeyguide, Little Bittern, Brubru to name just a few. A visit to Oranjekom later gave Pygmy Falcon, Verreaux’s Eagles, Karoo Longbilled Lark and Ludwig’s Bustard. Late afternoon a Peregrine Falcon was hunting out in the open areas while Hamerkops were feeding in the small streams coming from the nearby farms. We also found a pair of Golden-tailed Woodpeckers close to the office. The facilities in Augrabies are also very good although you should be wary for the baboons and monkeys which become a nuisance around the chalets and campsite. Contact www.sanparks.org/augrabies.
The next day we moved on to Pofadder and we picked up several Chat Flycatchers, while between 35 and 15 km from Pofadder the area teemed with LBJ’s like Stark’s Lark, Larklike Bunting, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Rufous-eared Warbler, Karoo Korhaan, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Black-eared and Grey-backed Sparrowlarks. A real feast!
In Pofadder we stayed at the Kleinplasie Chalets which is comfortable. Contact www.pofadderhotel.co.za; e-mail: info@pofadderhotel.co.za; tel 054 9330063 ; fax 054 9330455. After lunch we took the gravel road via Namies to the Red Lark spot. First stop was at the Sclater’s Lark waterhole, but nothing came to drink despite the heat. Wrong time!! We moved on and pick up Large-billed & Red-capped Lark, Yellow & Black-throated Canary and Karoo Chat. It was quiet hot when we arrived at the Koa Dunes and had some quick sightings of the Red Larks. They actually wouldn’t response to the call. We returned to Pofadder in a strong, cold wind which blew away any birds including Sclater’s Lark.
The next morning when we got up to look for the Sclater’s it was one of that miserable days – overcast with some drizzle now and then, cold, windy – and my hope for the Sclater’s was very low. Nevertheless, we went to the waterhole and waited. Some Yellow and White-throated Canaries came to drink and after an hour and half we were lucky as 6 Sclater’s Lark, mostly young birds, turned up. What a relief for myself and the clients!
The only other thing was now the long road back to Cape Town. As we nearer Springbok, the rain became stronger and we drove in the rain up to Vanrhynsdorp. After all a very successful trip with most of the western endemics.
~ Japie Claassen
